Caitríona Redmond: Buy Irish to support producers

Thanks to this grower innovation, consumers can expect their first Irish tomatoes on the shelves in late February or early March and enjoy them right up until October.

That seasonal window is not enough for Irish shoppers who will find tomatoes on supermarket shelves 52 weeks of the year. In the past 10 years or so, the rise of accessible viral video recipes being available on platforms such as TikTok or Instagram, can and will drive demand for certain products and produce. Both platforms, known for viral videos, have more than two million users in Ireland.

Take the feta and roasted tomato pasta of 2022 or pesto-fried eggs for example. Universal access via social media to international recipes drives an expectation that these ingredients should be available all year round. 

The immediacy of social media motivates consumers to act on the recipes they have viewed. Seasonality is not a deciding factor when shopping for ingredients for a viral dish. This is something that Bord Bia is aware of, and they have developed “Cultivate”, their consumer lifestyle trends section which helps inform Irish producers so they can meet demands and trends.

Have you ever gone to the supermarket and shuffled around the shelf to pick the perfect apple? So too do the multiple retailers and they demand a high appearance and quality standard from their producers. That’s not to say that wonky fruit and veg doesn’t taste as good. 

Unfortunately, to meet the exacting standards that the multiples set, several Irish producers have reported that their perfectly edible vegetables have been rejected by retailers.

The wealth of fruits and vegetables on the supermarket shelf is a wonderful sight to see but there is every chance some of what we see has travelled thousands of miles to get here.

Supermarket chains, also known as multiples, drive a hard bargain when negotiating prices. This creates a tight profit margin for growers. Having small profit margins makes the food growing industry vulnerable to external factors.

The rapid increase in the cost of energy due to the war in Ukraine was one such risk. The cost of heating and lighting tender fruits and vegetables to bring them to the market early uses significant energy. 

There was a delay in the availability of Irish-grown produce last summer, as the rise in energy prices made the production of tender fruits and vegetables prohibitive for growers. Instead, growers waited for the more natural cycle, using less energy, and the produce was on the shelves just a little later than consumers were accustomed to.

Likewise, the cost of keeping potatoes and onions chilled over a milder Winter has proven too expensive for some potato farmers. It has been cheaper to destroy or plough back a harvest and then import potatoes to meet their commitments to multiples and retain their business for another year.

Growing produce is a climate-sensitive business. Drought conditions require more water and cooling, and colder conditions require more heating. There is a knock-on effect on the cost of energy to the producer. 

Excessive rainfall brings even more complications. Several of my local potato producers struggled over the winter to even harvest their spuds due to the ground being so waterlogged. They were able to harvest by hand; a labour-intensive exercise which is extremely challenging in poor weather conditions for a low yield. 

Mechanical harvesting was not an option with the poor ground conditions. Once again, impacting on a tight margin for their produce.

The cost of living crisis has impacted on shopping baskets. As we all began to feel the pinch, price became the deciding factor on whether an item made it to the kitchen press or if it was left on the supermarket shelf. 

With less money to spend, consumers were driven to find the best value to meet their budget and became less discerning about whether a product was organic for example. There is a sweet spot where producers earn a fair price and shoppers are happy to buy. The cost of living crisis happening at the same time as an energy cost crisis was the perfect storm and some producers have been barely breaking even.

While the growth phase of fruits and vegetables can be maintained by a smaller number of workers, picking fruits and vegetables is very labour-intensive. In a market where workers are traditionally paid the minimum wage, margins will tighten further as a result of the increase to the minimum wage this year. Therefore, it may be the case that more food growers exit the market at the end of the 2024 growing year.

So how can we support Irish producers? They're in decline and if they are to survive they need public support. There are several ways you can do this, starting with eating more seasonal Irish produce. You can familiarise yourself with what is in season by referring to the Bord Bia website.

Next, look for Irish food on the supermarket shelf and only buy produce that cannot be grown commercially in Ireland. 

Bananas or pineapples are obvious examples. If you are lucky enough to have one or both nearby, buy your fresh food directly from a local farmgate or farmers market.

It is also worth asking your retailer why X, Y, or Z fruit or vegetable is imported when it is in season in Ireland.