Edinburgh: Be captivated by a city of hills and history
Peak Arthur's Old Salisbury Across Edinburgh's The Seat Town View And Of To The Cliffs Of Crags
On the packed evening flight on my first trip to Edinburgh in July, I had the good fortune of sitting beside a woman who knew the city intimately.
When she realised I had only the vaguest plans about what to see and do, she quickly reeled off a list of hits, which I dutifully tapped into my phone.
She finished her recommendations by saying: “You’ll be back.”
Standing on the rocky summit of Arthur’s Seat overlooking the magnificent city three days later, I knew in my fast-beating heart that she was right.
Fast-forward to September and I’m here again. I’ve just two days to finish my fellow passenger’s must-see list and revisit some highlights from my previous trip.
This time, I’m staying smack bang in the city centre at the new five-star 100 Princes Street, more a top-tier private club than hotel.
I arrived too late for dinner, but a charcuterie board — local cheeses, meats, crackers, and grapes — was thoughtfully placed in my bedroom.
Fresh milk was left in the mini-fridge to add to my tea or coffee. This above-and-beyond level of service was evident at every level during my short break.
After a perfect night’s sleep, I enjoyed the healthy breakfast option (green juice, Greek yoghurt, and house granola), followed by a perfect coffee.
I could have lingered in the impressively decorated bar, ordered a second coffee and taken in the castle views, but I was on a mission, so headed out into the crisp autumn weather.
First up was Dean Village, a 20- minute walk from the hotel. The four- and six-storey buildings in this 12th-century hamlet on the Water of Leith look like something you’d find in Amsterdam.
A standout is Well Court, originally built for workers at the nearby mills.
With its red brick and green window frames and doors, turret-style staircase, and courtyard crisscrossed with clotheslines, it seemed frozen in the year marked on the plaque on the outside wall: 1884.
A closer look at one of the basement doors revealed a plastic-rimmed cat flap — a concession to the modern-day occupants and their pets.
While rambling around, I chanced upon the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. After a fortifying bowl of soup and a wedge of bread, I visited its impressive art collection.
Among many standouts were Edvard Munch’s haunting duo, ‘On the Waves of Love’ (1986), Pablo Picasso’s dark and intimate ‘Mother and Child’ (1902) and Robert Mapplethorpe’s provocative portrait photography, including one of singer Grace Jones returning to her ethnic roots (1986).
Henry Moore’s ‘Reclining Figure’ (1951) in bronze sits triumphantly at the entrance of the neoclassical building — still glorious and thoroughly modern.
I could have stayed for hours, revisiting artist heroes from my Leaving Cert art course.
But the clock was ticking, and I had an afternoon tea date at the hotel.
After feasting on perfectly cut wild salmon sandwiches, scones and clotted cream, and irresistible carrot cake, and downing two pots of sublime in-house tea, I was ready to hit the streets again.
First up was the steep hill to the Old Town. At its centre is the Royal Mile, once a steep processional route for monarchs, that runs from the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
Though off-season, the cobbled street was heaving with overseas visitors — mostly Americans, Asians, and Europeans.
The attraction is understandable, given the history it encompasses. Landmarks, including 12th-century St Giles’ Cathedral and 15th-century John Knox House, go some way towards telling the story of Scotland’s turbulent religious past.
Food, drink, and accommodation can be found along the Mile and cheek-by-jowl souvenir shops.
Entertainers lined the street: a living classical statue, a bagpipe player in traditional dress, and a performer who drew a deep crowd with his fire-eating antics and suggestive humour.
Also plying his trade was a middle-aged fortune teller dressed in a Harris Tweed jacket and tartan trousers.
He crouched on a fold-up chair with a compass and other instruments on a small table before him, and as he spoke gently and with concern to the young woman sitting opposite him, it was hard to doubt his sincerity.
With a few hours before sunset and a cornflower blue sky, I found myself magnetically drawn back to Arthur’s Seat — the untamed hilly slopes promising a better view with every step.
The city’s fiery geological history is evident from this vantage point — extinct volcanos puncture the skyline.
Edinburgh Castle is built on top of one believed to be 350m years old, another features the neoclassical National Monument on Calton Hill, but greatest of all is Arthur’s Seat, reaching a height of 250m.
As much as I wanted to keep climbing, it was time to return to the hotel for a pre-booked dinner and whiskey-tasting tutorial. One must also enjoy a city for its culinary delights, I firmly told myself as I turbo-walked back to base.
The next monring , after another perfect night’s sleep and breakfast, I headed out early — I had a 10pm flight to catch and a lot to pack into the long day.
I did a quick tour of the shops on Princes Street — newly opened UNIQLO stands out among dated shopfronts — before rounding the corner to the ultra-modern and buzzing St James Quarter, which houses big high-street brands.
I was searching for something sparkly to wear for an upcoming event, but should have known it would take more time than the hour I had allotted.
Next on my agenda was a pre-booked visit (£19.50) to the imposing castle, a monument to Scottish fortitude and pride.
The fierce-looking Portcullis Gate (1574-1577) immediately sets the scene for what is to follow, a stone fortress that has seen war, victory, and defeat since the 11th century.
The Great Hall at the castle’s centre is a showstopper worthy of its name. Completed in 1512 by James IV, the king likely entertained Irish chief Hugh O’Donnell under its ornate ceiling.
The gigantic Mons Meg cannon, 4.6m long and weighing 6,970kg, stands proudly atop the castle. The foreboding hunk of defensive military technology was gifted to James ll in 1457 and named after the Belgian town of Mons, where it was made.
Nearby is an appealing cemetery for soldiers’ dogs from the 19th century. With headstones featuring names such as Winkle and Scamp, the memorials unexpectedly humanise the castle.
From start to finish of my tour, the castle grounds were heaving with people, with long queues for the crown jewels (‘The Honours’) and the tiny St Margaret’s Chapel. With an eye on the clock, I decided to push on and turned back towards the Royal Mile.
Next stop was the National Museum of Scotland, about a 15-minute walk away. I’m back for a second time to take in more of its 12m historical artefacts, from Viking hoards to Dolly the sheep, the first cloned mammal.
The imposing museum is not without a sense of historical perspective, with a plaque at the entrance to the Empire collection stating: ‘Many of the objects in our collection from this period reflect complex interactions between different people and cultures. The stories are many-sided, but they often reveal histories of imperial exploitation, oppression, and violence against indigenous people.’
I strongly advise booking a tour with the encyclopaedic guides (arrive by 10am to ensure you get a place), which is free.
It was too late for lunch at the museum cafe, so I headed to the Palace of Holyroodhouse for extra-strength tea and a great selection of sandwiches and snacks.
Its gift shop is worth visiting if you’re acommitted royal family fans. You’ll find bone china tea sets inspired by the Royal Collection for the price of a king’s ransom — a mug costs £50, and a limited-edition charger plate £300.
I bought a thistle Christmas decoration for £14.95, an affordable family tradition when I’m travelling.
Though I could have justified returning to the hotel for tea, I couldn’t resist a final visit to Arthur’s Seat.
It’s teaming with life and stories: a walker and her cocker spaniel that can’t resist rolling in a boggy puddle; university students helping a friend who has injured her ankle; a gathering of eclectic performers practising for the upcoming Samhuinn Fire Festival. If it’s possible to fall in love with a city, then I’ve left my heart in Edinburgh.
I’m already planning my next trip — I still have to complete my must-see list. But I’ll have to be prepared to share this captivating city of hills and history with the many other visitors who seem to feel the same way.
- Ryanair flies direct to Edinburgh daily from Cork and Dublin, ryanair.com
- Aer Lingus flies direct daily from Dublin, aerlingus.com
- B&B at 100 Princes Street, from £390 per night for a cosy entry level en suite double and full Scottish breakfast, 100princes-street.com
- Irene was a guest of 100 Princes Street