Majorca: Getting the most of a misunderstood sun-holiday staple
Palma, Sunset Majorca Over
Waiting to board my 8am flight to Palma, I feel underdressed. I’d gone practical, layers of black linen, sensible Teva walking sandals.
I am not ready for the level of sophistication in the queue. Bouncy blow-drys and tumbling curls surround me. Eavesdropping tells me there is a wedding group and at least two hen parties in the mix but not the tacky t-shirt types.
These girls are in chic, coordinated white outfits, bronzed and contoured to perfection. I’ve never seen so many (real) Gucci and Louis Vuitton carry-ons for a Ryanair flight.
On board, I pretend to read my book but instead indulge in a wonderful session of people-watching as the flight attendants worry about running out of Prosecco.
I look down at Majorca as we land, a lush, green island, I know is bursting with great food, wine, beaches, people, and culture that’s more than ready for this planeful of glam.
I have to laugh at the juxtaposition of the idea I had of Majorca for many years. Boy was I wrong.
I’m fully blaming the early noughties for this. My knowledge of sunny Europe was garnered from holiday brochures (remember them?) that sold Spain as a package holiday destination full of high rise hotels, packed beaches, and neon strips of nightclubs.
When I thought of Majorca I thought of Santa Ponsa and Magaluf (or Shagaluf as we used to call it), places where Irish and English revellers went for low-priced, booze-fuelled sun holidays.
The TV shows bolstered this reputation of the Balearic Islands. Does anyone remember The Villa? Or Ibiza Uncovered? Entertaining TV shows that gave us juicy, outrageous headlines and completely ignored the rest of the island’s incredible attributes.
I wasted years thinking badly of these stunning, sun-drenched islands that are far cooler than many of the actual holidays I went on in my twenties.
I realised, of course, I was wrong and I’ve been trying to make it up to Spain ever since, visiting the beautiful Balearics whenever I can.
Although I’ve only been to Majorca once before, and never to Palma, I was looking forward to exploring as we check into a modern hotel, the JS Palma Plaza.
The rooms are practical but fun and there’s a lovely roof terrace with a lap pool. Most important of all, it’s an easy walk into Palma’s old town which is as beautiful as I expected and perfect for pottering.
A walking tour gives me the jist of the city and a taste of the incredible Gothic, modernist and Art Nouveau buildings but I’m itching to explore on my terms, stopping off for refreshments along the way, which is how I think it should be done.
We eat dinner at Celler Pagès, an old-school restaurant serving traditional Majorcan dishes, which is perfect for the first night and a great introduction to the island’s food.
I’m delighted to find Sobrasada on the menu, a specialty of Mallorca for centuries, and a favourite of mine from my last trip to the island.
This spreadable cured, paprika-spiked pork sausage is delicious and served on toast piled with caramelised onions and washed down with local white wine.
I’m ready to sleep after this but my in-the-know travel companion insists there is a spot we have to go for a drink and she’s not wrong.
Theatrical doesn’t quite cover Bar Ábaco. We step inside the ancient wooden door to loud classical music and elaborate interiors in this busy and buzzy bar in what was once a 17th century noble Majorcan house.
It’s a sight to behold. Huge flower displays, ornate statues with jewel-coloured fabrics, and fruit and vegetables tumbling from them and there are three floors of this to explore.
I’m enthralled by everything but the drinks. The cocktails are badly made and overpriced. I wish I’d ordered a safe glass of wine instead or even a gin and tonic which seem to be free-poured to eager guests at their tables.
THE next morning we take a short drive to Calvià to head out on a Llaut, a traditional boat of the Balearic Islands. Ours is a modern electric version, a sign of the shift towards more sustainable tourism here.
It’s a real treat to be brought out on a boat for most of a day with nothing to do but swim and eat.
I’m delighted with our box of treats from local caterer Picknicup including Coca Mallorquina, a sort of mini pizza on a shortcrust base with red pepper and olive oil that pairs well with a glass of cava after a swim.
Chartering a boat on these islands is always a good idea if your budget allows. It’s a truly wonderful way to explore the coastline and get a glimpse of how the sleek yacht crowd lives.
Back in Palma that evening I get to do some of my preferred pottering, which revolves around wine stop-offs. I love Cav, a cool bottle shop serving natural and biodynamic wines and La Viniloteca, a wine bar and vinyl store in the old town.
Then I head to Santa Catalina, a buzzy part of the Palma that is full of fun bars and restaurants to explore.
We have an exceptional dinner at Nus, a cool spot serving Asian-inspired dishes with a very Spanish heart to them served from an open kitchen where chef Irene Martinez is working her magic.
Spilling out onto the street after, very full, I opt for an early night but can tell if you wanted some fun, Santa Catalina would be the place to have it.
I’m not ready to leave Palma the next day, I feel like we only scratched the surface, but the schedule is set and we head North to Pollença, a gorgeous historic village of winding streets and pretty squares.
We visit TeixitsVicens, a family-run artisan textile factory dating back to 1854 and home of the famous Majorca weave ‘cloth of tongues’.
The shop is full of nice things and I have to decide there and then to give up some of the luggage space I’d earmarked for Mallorcan food to linens. I settle on a couple of flat cushion covers to keep my space for cheese and olive oil.
We drive further north to the Bassa Blanca Museum which has some of Majorca’s best bits by the bucket load — scenery, nature, great architecture, culture, and art.
It’s located within a declared Wildlife Sanctuary, on the coast near Alcúdia, privately owned by artists Ben Jakober and Yannick Vu but is open to the public with tickets from €7.00.
There are several exhibition spaces including a sculpture garden full of granite animals, a giant rocket ship and a mini Stonehenge.
We take a house tour, a Hispano-Moorish building designed by Hassan Fathy that was once the artist’s home but is now an extraordinary museum full of their private collection of eclectic art.
There are Picasso sketches, Yoko Ono’s postcards, and even a Ghanaian shoe-shaped coffin in the collection. I’m completely enamoured by this place and walking around have already texted several people I know who come to the island to say: ‘Have you been here yet?’
I’m all for savouring the culture of the island, but to be honest, I’m hankering for some beach time. Happily, our last stop is the Hotel Son Moll Sentits in Cala Ratjada, a charming village on the east coast.
We learn this is where the Germans come when one of our group tries to find a pub playing a Celtic game, but is told Bayern Munich rules the roost in these parts. You can see why they love it here.
This hotel, like many others, is right on the water, you can sleep to the sound of the waves and wake for a sunrise swim.
The food is good at the hotel, especially breakfast on the beachside terrace and the waterside loungers were crying out to be lazed on but alas we had a plane to catch.
I have, however, earmarked Cala Ratjada for a return visit. Along with the rest of the island. Majorca, maybe you weren’t asking, but I’ll be back.
- Aer Lingus and Ryanair have direct flights to Palma from Dublin from February to November.
- Ryanair will also fly directly to Palma from Shannon in 2025.
- Learn more about Majorca at spain.info
instagram.com/lavinilotecapalma
serranohotels.com/en/hoteles/son-moll-sentits-hotel-spa
- Ali Dunworth was a guest of Spanish Tourism