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Going back to Galicia: falling back in love with the quieter part of Northern Spain — Plaza Postela, Famous Del Santiago Of The In Galicia Image De Obradoiro

Sat, 07 Sep, 2024 - 02:00

Arlene Harris

We have so many things in common that according to some locals, the Gallicians are ‘the Irish who couldn’t swim’.

From the lush green landscape, to traditional ‘gaita’ pipes which are similar to our own uilleann pipes, popular dishes such as caldo galego, featuring ham and cabbage, and others with a strong emphasis on potatoes — and even the smattering of Gallegan words which bear an uncanny resemblance to Gaeilge, Galicia and Ireland have a distinctly close bond.

I developed my own relationship with the region after spending a summer there as a teenager, but while Santiago de Compostela is a magnet for Irish people looking to find themselves on the world-famous Camino route, this beautiful, rugged corner of north west Spain remains somewhat undiscovered for many holidaymakers from our own fair isle.

The weather might have something to do with the fact that most people head to the south, but while Galicia is not known to be as hot as the Costa Del Sol, it has, in my experience, so much more to offer.

Leaving behind a somewhat grey and blustery Ireland, two hours later, my OH and I disembark in the Galician capital and hop in the nearest taxi, which 20 minutes and €20 later, sees us checking into Hotel Compostela, right in the heart of the city and just minutes from the famous cathedral and surrounding Plaza del Obradoiro.

Interior of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral with the "botafumeiro"

After a quick freshen up, we head out to join the evening buzz of tourists, pilgrims, and locals, all keen to make the most of the outdoor cafes, bars and restaurants.

I think I may have been Spanish (or Galician) in a former life because once out in the bustling streets, I feel alive and energised.

Mind you, the selection of regional tapas — pimientos de padrón (charred and salted peppers), tequeño (hot, cheesy bread), raxo (pork loin with paprika, and pulpo (sweet and spicy octopus) — with a couple of glasses of chilled

Albariño, might have something to do with this feeling of wellbeing.

The city holds a special place in my heart as it was here, aged 14, that I had my first taste of independent travel (staying with a local family), beginning a lifelong wanderlust and a secret desire to live in Spain.

And although I’ve returned a number of times, there’s always something new to see — it’s perfect for a short break to soak up the atmosphere, visit the Museo del Pueblo Gallego, the Sargadelos gallery, the Parque de la Alameda and of course the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela and the Botafumeiro.

SOUTHWARDS

On my earlier visits to Galicia, I spent time in A Coruña and Santa Cristina, both located north of the capital and well worth checking out, while as a teen I stayed in Ribeira, O Grove, and Pontevedra and many other smaller towns whose names have escaped me but the memories of sandy beaches, pine forests, and card games around a camp fire are as vivid as if they happened last month.

This time, we head southwards, firstly to Vigo, one of the biggest cities of the region and also one of the largest fishing ports in Europe.

I love train travel, not only for the ease of rocking up 10 minutes before departure, the lack of worry about car hire and parking, but also for the joy of sitting back, relaxing, and watching the world go by.

So we decide to explore the region by rail and just over an hour later arrive in Vigo which, close to the Portuguese border, is just an hour and a half away by car from Porto.

With its steep hills, narrow, cobbled streets and a harbour filled with vessels of all shapes and sizes, it’s like a smaller version of the vibrant, colourful Portuguese destination, much loved by Irish holidaymakers.

The train station was recently renovated to the tune of several million euro and it shows — it is bright, modern, and very futuristic and located at one of the highest points of the city.

But thankfully for us, our hotel, is located right across the street. Leaving behind the gloriously air conditioned terminus and squinting at Google Maps in the blinding midday sun, we are thrilled to discover that our journey takes a mere two minutes on foot.

The small but comfortable Hotel Occidental has everything we need for our short three-day stay which involves a lot of sightseeing, eating, drinking, and just watching the world go by.

There are so many fantastic bars and restaurants in Vigo and on our first day, we come across a little wine bar called Malauva which is yet to open for the evening.

The proprietor explains that apart from a couple of stools at the bar, the venue is fully booked. Realising this can only be a good thing, we quickly reserve the last few spaces as the small plate menu looks even more interesting than the wine list.

Coming back later to claim our seats, the place is hopping and the diversity and quality of the food coming out of the tiny kitchen where the chef is run off her feet, is astounding.

There is a huge selection of wines to choose from and the owner/sommelier/barman/waiter proves extremely knowledgeable and delighted to advise on pairings. It is a fabulous evening and one I’d gladly recreate.

The walk back to the hotel is blissfully easy thanks to the late hour and the cool (ish) night air, and helps to aid a good night’s sleep.

The next morning brings another bright and uncharacteristically hot day which is perfect for a trip to one of the many beaches within a short bus ride of the centre.

O Faro, off the coast of Pontevedra in Galicia

Over the course of the few days, we take a trip over to Monteagudo on the Cíes Islands which, due to their stunning natural beauty were dubbed the ‘Islands of the Gods’ by the Romans.

Only accessible by boat and with a permit to limit visitor numbers, they are well worth the advance booking, the 40-minute trip and the €26 one-way ticket price.

Part of the Atlantic Islands National Park, there is limited infrastructure on the archipelago, so it is essential to bring supplies as there is no boardwalk selling ice-creams, fish and chips, or seaside trinkets.

The islands are delightfully remote, but even back on the mainland, there is a real feeling of being away from the main tourist trail — and when enquiring about where we come from, most locals seem surprised as they apparently don’t get many visitors from Ireland, which is surprising as it is such a beautiful part of the world.

ANOTHER DESTINATION

There is plenty to keep visitors occupied and when not meandering through the streets, enjoying the refreshing waters of the Atlantic and indulging in the excellent seafood the area is renowned for, there are also museums, art galleries, some great shops, electric bike tours, a hike to Castelo do Castro and some glorious shade in Parque Castrelos, to make every visit memorable.

But we have another destination to get to. Having enjoyed all that Vigo has to offer, we head inland to check out the famous hot springs and historic quarter of Ourense.

Praza Major, main town square in Ourense city

Arriving, once again by train, the heat on the station concourse is like stepping into a sauna. Rather than trying to navigate our way to the Barcelo Ourense hotel, we hail a cab.

The driver is charmed by the fact that we are from Ireland and proceeds to tell us all about a visit he enjoyed to Cork and Galway as a young man.

Ten minutes and four euro later, he drops us outside our new temporary abode where we are greeted like royalty by the friendly, welcoming staff before taking the lift to our fabulous ninth-floor room complete with a spacious terrace and bird’s eye view of the city.

Knowing nothing about Ourense apart from its famous hot springs and reputation for great restaurants, we quickly set about using our time to explore and get our bearings.

Just like Vigo, the temperature is way above average, with high 30s and even low 40s making everything feel more than a bit clammy.

A dramatic thunderstorm soon clears the air, paving the way for a lazy few days, exploring the narrow streets of the old town, which, dominated by the Catedral de Ourense, are crammed with busy bars, outdoor cafes and air conditioned restaurants.

Courtyard of the monastery of Oseira at Ourense, Galicia, Spain. Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de Oseira. Galicia wx070924

Ourense’s big draw are its thermal baths — Termas As Burgas — dotted along the riverside. Some are public and bathers can just arrive and ease themselves into the warm water, while others, such as A Chavasqueira, charge an entrance fee of a couple of euro and with that you can avail of showers, lockers, and a café bar.

Moving from pool to pool to try out the different properties, we revel in the tranquillity and stunning scenery, which makes the 6km river walk well worth it (it is also accessible by bike, bus, or taxi).

Ponte Romano, the beautiful old Roman bridge, is another must-see, as is the contemporary bridge, Puente del Milenio, a destination in itself (en route to the baths) — its original design is a sight to behold, or, if you’re brave enough, to walk.

During our trip, we also visit the cloisters of Claustro de San Francisco, the beautiful church of Iglesia de Santa Eufemia, and of course the Catedral, while also taking a boat trip on the River Sil and an early morning bike excursion to the medieval monastery of Monasterio de Oseira.

Our evenings are spent enjoying the buzz of the Plaza Major and the surrounding streets which offer everything from Michelin-starred dining to mouth-watering tapas served on wooden ledges in the street.

All too soon our trip to Galicia has come to an end and although, on this occasion, I have managed to discover far more of this beautiful region, there is still so much I’ve yet to explore — so without a doubt, I will be back.