Blueways and greenways: three big family days out in Ireland

Transporting bulky and heavy goods by water was once the most efficient pre-rail method.

There’s a good commercial reason most of our cities, such as Waterford, Limerick, Dublin, and Cork, are at the mouth of big rivers. So when you factor in minor rivers and canals too then you might see why Killaloe was once the virtual capital of Ireland — 1,000 years ago when Brian Ború was the first High King of Ireland.

A boat trip on Lough Derg is a pretty chill way to check out the scenery and Killaloe River Cruises cuts right up the ‘middle of the road’ between counties Clare and Tipperary so you can see it all at once with a minimum of effort.

If it’s breezy you can sit indoors downstairs near the bar but if it’s bright and sunny, or you’re wrapped up for a crisp day then I’d recommend heading up top. The bar offers hot chocolate, a selection of gins or a rather moreish Irish coffee. Owner James Whelan is everywhere on this boat, chatting to passengers and only too delighted to tell people about what sight we’re passing right now or who taught him to make those toasty hot Irish coffees (it was Brendan Grace who once terrified me as Bottler). And he’s rightfully proud of a bonkers-sounding renovation they completed in recent years.

James started out with a small boat bringing groups of four out on the water. Then, following upgrades to 12-seater passenger boat and later a 50-seater, the tours grew in popularity. Instead of getting rid of the quite pretty Spirit of Killaloe they decided to lengthen her. I genuinely did not know you could just seamlessly build a whole seven-meter section into a boat and increase capacity to 80 passengers but that’s exactly what they did... and it looks great.

Back to Brian Ború for a moment — we pass his ringfort, aka Beal Ború — his headquarters were at Ceann Coradh which is about a mile from Killaloe and you can visit this historic site when you’re back on dry land.

Greenways are associated with activity and exercise so the next day we decide to get up closer with the water (some of us more than others, but more of that later) and head out kayaking with My Next Adventure. You don’t need to have done much or any kayaking — they’ll supply all the gear and even a guide to accompany you.

Get your bearings on a quiet canal and then head up one side of Lough Derg and pass rather fancy houses and boats along the way. On a kayak you’re lower down on the water than in a boat and this is a great way to see how clear the water actually is — there’s plenty of fish and lilies and water weeds to see if you’re happy taking things easy. If, like two of my teenagers, you’re feeling more energetic, then maybe your guide will helpfully demonstrate how to flick an arc of water onto a sibling or parent with your paddle.

Slack parenting alert: I actually had my back turned and was a few metres away for the next bit. In my defence, one teen has completed a life-saving course and both are strong swimmers. Hearing a sploosh, I looked back to see one entirely innocent teen doing the classic pro footballer hands-in-the-air thing while the other’s kayak was upside down. Not a bother to him: back on the kayak and off we went under the 18th century 13-arch Killaloe Bridge complete with its interesting eel trap and transport system.

The waterlogged teen was dried off by the time we got back past riverboats and swans and ducks but we were still held to our consolation promises of hot chocolate and pizza. Luckily there’s a farmer’s market in Killaloe on Sunday mornings — and there’s a horsebox coffee shop or a pizza restaurant/ bar with outdoor seating for any other day.

We stayed at the very nice Lakeside Hotel and Leisure Centre, in a handy family room. And just in case we hadn’t had enough water there’s a pool with sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, and a spiral slide.

Congratulations to the couple who had a beautifully sunny day for their outdoor wedding overlooking the lake while we were there. Barely any of those revellers were up while we hit the breakfast room the next morning so repeat trips to the pancake machine weren’t too shameful.

• Caroline was a guest of Waterways Ireland. Plan your visit to the Lough Derg Blueway at waterwaysireland.org
• Killaloe cruise for family of four (2 adults and 2 children) €42, with killaloerivercruises.com
• Kayaking tours start at €45 with mynextadventure.ie
• B&B for two from €124 at Lakeside Hotel and Leisure Centre, Killaloe, Co Clare, lakesidehotel.ie

Vickie Maye’s family explores Wexford

They lie, belly down on the board, head up, back arched, hands under their shoulders. They crane their heads back, scrutinising the water. The first sight of a wave and they ready themselves. Over and over again they paddle furiously, trying to push themselves into a pop-up position. And time and time again they fall, laughing as they emerge from the foam and the waves.

It’s their first surfing lesson. Expectations are realistically low as we watch from the shore. How much can they possibly grasp in a 90-minute lesson? But my three water babies are determined.

Sure enough, with minutes to go, the 13-year-old follows the wave, and before we know it, she is standing, riding the water to the shore. She is euphoric.

They emerge from the sea, boards under their arms all but striding.

The instructor from The Surf Shack shares their elation. She had run a seamless 90-minute lesson. They began with activities to warm up, ice breakers like wheelbarrow and piggy back races. Gradually, the games moved further down the beach, and before they even knew what was happening, they were submerged in the sea.

There wasn’t an opportunity to feel nervous, to feel cold. It was all about fun. This, you think, is how every summer camp should be run.

It is a beautiful day on Curracloe Beach and after our surf lesson we sit and savour 99s at the beach hut. A perfect Irish summer day.

Earlier that morning we visited the nearby Wells House and Gardens. There are two woodland walks to discover, and dotted throughout are intricate wooden carvings and statues. It’s like nothing we’ve seen before. The Mogue walk features towering dragons, doors to Narnia, life-size bears. The kids run ahead through the forest, shouting out, squealing, as they make each new discovery. They form bands at the life-size wooden drum kits, play imaginary guitars and sing into sticks for microphones. They are entranced, engaged. It feels magical.

For younger children there’s the fairy walk — and a life size Gruffalo. We could have spent the day in this fairyland. If you’re in the area, don’t miss it.

There were other wonders to explore in country Wexford too. The beautiful grounds of Johnstown Castle, with its unique agricultural museum, brim full of quizzes and trails to keep children engaged.

The National Heritage Park is another treat— a 9,000-year journey that brings Irish history to life, over 35 acres of native woodland, marsh and shoreline. An outdoor museum with a difference, here everything from dolmen to crannogs have been recreated. Visitors can walk through ancient Ireland, starting with the first settlers seeing how they lived. There’s a Viking ship to explore and you can wander into these historic homes, comparing a Stone Age settlement with a Viking house. The guided tours are exceptional, bringing our history to life. At every site there are activities for kids — they can learn to write their names in ogham, even sift for gold.

There’s also Hook Head lighthouse to explore, and Wexford’s stunning coastal walks. But truly, you could just spend an afternoon wandering around the town and its endless sea vista with an ice cream.

We stayed centrally in Clayton White’s Hotel. The swimming pool here is top notch and saved us on one rainy afternoon.

Plus, you’re a stone’s throw from any restaurant. We had a perfect Irish gastro pub experience at The Bank. Breaded prawns with chili sauce, steaks, and smiling homely service — it’s what you hope every tourist encounters when they travel to Ireland.

Other highlights are Green Acres — in the heart of the town this three-storey 1800s listed building houses a retail store with a deli, bakery and café as well as an art gallery. We choose the restaurant, where the food proved exceptional, right down to the kids menu.

We leave Wexford, the kids in the back pleading for their very own surfboards to try out on our Cork shores. They want to bring the magic of Wexford, the discoveries of this Irish holiday, home with them.

• Vickie was a guest of Fáilte Ireland. Plan your visit to ireland’s Ancient East at discoverireland.ie/irelands-ancient-east
• Surf lessons from €47.70 at surfshackireland.com
• Wells House & Gardens, Gorey, Family tickets €24 (2 adults and up to 3 children), wellshouse.com
• B&B for 2 sharing, €179 at Clayton Whites Hotel, Gorey, Co Wexford, claytonhotels.com

Deirdre McArdle’s family cycles the Limerick Greenway

We powered into the breakfast at the Longcourt House Hotel, determined to set ourselves up for our 20km cycle in a couple of hours. We’d enjoyed a great night’s sleep here and are feeling fresh and fired up. This family-owned and family-run hotel, in the centre of Newcastle West, was bustling when we arrived the night before. Just in time for dinner we were spoiled for choice, rounding off our meal with a sticky toffee pudding that I’m still thinking about.

The hotel is the ideal spot for anyone taking on the Limerick Greenway (the hotel’s Greenway offer includes complimentary bike hire). There is a Greenway hub in Newcastle West, but we are starting our journey 10 minutes’ drive away in Ardagh. We meet Shane from Like Bikes at the Ardagh station, where he has our bikes all ready to go. The team regularly travels around the different points on the Greenway delivering and collecting bikes, a handy service which means you just need to rock up on the day, all ready to go. Primed with our bikes and suitably helmeted we set off on our cycle.

The Ardagh-Rathkeale stretch of the Limerick Greenway is level and undemanding, perfect for our five-year-old daughter and her little legs. It is great to see how well used the Greenway is: we pass young families out for a cycle just like us, zippy cyclists who quite probably have traversed the entire 40km stretch, women out for a walk with friends, and a few elderly couples taking a leisurely stroll — it feels like an advertisement for the accessibility and the benefits of greenways.

Although the morning had started out grey and drizzly, the sun pokes its way out of the clouds about 10 minutes into our cycle and we are able to take in the countryside stretching out ahead of us. It’s a peaceful path, surrounded, and at times canopied, by trees. Benches and picnic tables dot the trail, offering the opportunity to take time out, and in our case, pick some blackberries and watch our daughter chase butterflies.

Pastoral is the word that comes to mind to describe the views. We are seeing the West Limerick countryside in all its glory — fields that stretch for miles, working farms, and active hedgerows. Signposts along the way help us to keep track of how far we’ve cycled and, crucially, how far we have to go. This is important information for our mini cyclist!

And soon we have Rathkeale in our sights, a tastefully renovated old railway station complete with an open courtyard area with picnic tables, and the 1709 Café, which is housed in the refurbished station house. We find plenty of choice in the café, which has a selection of baked goodies, sandwiches and “omg so many ice cream flavours!”, according to our weary companion, who perks up considerably when she sees what is on offer. The 1709 Café is the sister café of Bloomers in Rathkeale town, a popular spot run by John Comer.

In the back of the café there’s an unexpected treasure trove for the historians among us, or even those with an interest in local titbits. The Palatine Heritage Centre houses displays and artefacts from the German Palatine settlements in Ireland in the 1700s, and is a labour of love of Austin Bovenizer, himself a descendant of the Palatine settlers. History is all around us on the Limerick Greenway, from the beautiful stone railway buildings to the spot where the Ardagh Chalice was discovered, just minutes from the Ardagh hub. The spot itself though is so unheralded, you could well miss it. Surprising, considering it is widely considered one of Ireland’s greatest national treasures.

Refuelled after our stop in Rathkeale we turn around and head off, back the way we came. It’s one of life’s weird quirks that the journey home is always shorter, and so it is with our cycle back to Ardagh. The sun is really beating down now, and we need plenty of water breaks, plus a couple of words of encouragement, but finally our finishing point looms into view, and we are back where we started in Ardagh.

As a family of novice cyclists, the Limerick Greenway is a fun opportunity for us to dip our toes into this type of staycation (or day-cation). And with Limerick just an hour and a half drive from Cork, we’ll absolutely be back. Next time, we may even tackle one of the other Greenway sections which feature the Barnagh Tunnel and the architecturally striking Ferguson’s Viaduct. Who knows, maybe we’ll even cycle onwards into Kerry.

• Deirdre was a guest of Limerick Greenway. Plan your trip at greenwaysireland.org/limerick-greenway/
• Bikes can be rented on the Limerick Greenway from Like Bikes. Kid’s bikes, €15 a day, adult’s bikes €25, likebikes.ie
• B&B for 2 at Longcourt House Hotel in Newcastle West, Co Limerick from €145, longcoursehotel.ie