Cool and charming, hip and historic — Zürich makes the perfect city break

There’s something soothing about a city on a lake, and Lake Zürich or Zürichsee, is a beauty. Vast and clear, its pristine waters stretch south, their ebbing expanse kissed by the purest mountain air. Long and deep, the lake’s furthest shores are encircled by a vista of snow capped peaks that typify Switzerland’s fabled scenery. Iconic and majestic, the Swiss Alps are the most delicious backdrop to a city break, shimmering lilac and silver in the autumn sun.

We’ve come for a romantic weekend, which can only mean one thing: Checking into the impossibly stylish Baur au Lac. Owned by the same family since 1844, kings, emperors and aristocrats all flocked to the city to enjoy the legendary Baur hospitality at this Swiss landmark.

Now 180 years on, the handsome waterside five-star is in favour with royalty and low-key celebrities, all drawn to the discreet service and delightfully opulent rooms. Immaculately tricked out in lavish fabrics, art works and furniture, Baur makes a dreamy hideaway on a nippy day. Our luxurious suite looks out onto the hotels’ private gardens, which run down to the lake.

In summer, you’ll find the Baur beehives, created like a miniature hotel, its residents busily making honey for breakfast. The sunny Terrasse buzzes too with well-heeled locals and tourists enjoying al fresco lunches and evening cocktails. Afternoon tea in the hotel’s Le Hall — a jewel-like salon with a historic chandelier — is a Zürich rite of passage, all pretty pastries, chic locals, and the ultimate in cosy.

Zürich’s medieval heart sits along the River Limmat, a beautiful tangle of cobbled lanes and ornate architecture, courtyards and churches. The waterfront is a panorama worth taking in from the water, with striking Baroque guildhalls which now house stylish restaurants. This Niederdorf district houses the landmark Grossmünster, a twin-towered 12th century church that dominates the skyline. The birthplace of the Swiss-German Reformation, Grossmünster’s foreboding interior is worth a peep inside.

Nearby Schipfe, one of the city’s oldest quarters, has gone from pre-Roman settlement to 16th century centre of the city’s silk industry to its place as a picturesque riverside strip populated by artists, craft shops and cute cafés.

Shopping in Zürich is a national past time, the long leafy Bahnhofstrasse the jewel in the affluent city’s crown. Stretching from the lakeside to the historic main train station, this famous mile-long boulevard was designed to impress, with its smart 19th century architecture and wide paths. Today, it’s one of the world’s most exclusive shopping streets, lined with the biggest luxury brands, from haute couture designers to Swiss watchmakers, glossy department stores and high-end chocolatiers like (our favourite) Laderach. It’s an expensive spot to flex your credit card, but it’s a joy to explore and the window shopping is free, and almost as much fun.

Like the cooler, edgier sister of Bern and Geneva, Zürich’s always been a rule breaker. Since the Middle Ages, the city has been known to do things its own way. The birthplace of the radical Dada art movement and, later, Constructivism, Zürich once counted James Joyce, Wagner, Lenin and Einstein amongst its citizens. These creative and intellectual seams run deep, and the city is still a hotbed of artistic, cultural and academic endeavours. With 50 museums and dozens of world class galleries, Zürich offers a feast for culture vultures… or those hiding from the snow.

Should you fancy a romp outdoors, wrap-up warm and make for Uetliberg, Zürich’s little mountain. Take the train up top, enjoy the panoramic views, then hire sleighs and toboggan down the 3.1km run through the woods!

At the foothills of Uetliberg, you’ll find Zuri-West, a former industrial quarter that’s become the beating heart of the cultural and night life scene. Originally a rundown area of warehouses and factories, the Industriequartier has been transformed into the hippest neighbourhood in town, and cool new residential area.

Dominated by the dramatic railway viaduct, built in 1894, the huge arches are filled with independent design stores, boutiques, galleries, vintage shops, restaurants and bars. A cool spot to hang out and shop, be sure to visit the Markt Halle, a lively indoor food market offering everything from delicious farmhouse cheese and charcuterie to Swiss delicacies.

Zurich’s tram network flows smoothly through the city but with culinary temptations at ever turn and gorgeous old streets for exploring, this is one city break where walking will elevate you to a state of Swiss bliss.

Güten Appetit!

For a slice of history, try dinner and drinks (and Picasso on the walls) at city favourite Kronenhalle ( kronenhalle.ch), which has been feeding creatives and intellectuals since 1924.

Don’t miss coffee, cakes and hot chocolate in the magical Café Schober ( cafe1842.ch), a gorgeous institution serving treats for 100 years. 

For a chilled out Michelin-starred dinner, with incredible wines, Maison Manesse is the height of hip ( maisonmanesse.ch).

Escape Notes

Aer Lingus ( aerlingus.com) and Swiss (swiss.com) fly direct to Zürich from Dublin.

For free or reduced access to 40 museums and free transport Invest in a ZürichCARD from tourist offices, information desks in the airport or online at zuerich.com, from €31.

For tourist information on Zürich visit zuerich.com.