The island where Ulysses met Princess Nausicaa in one of the most famous scenes in Homer’s Odyssey, Corfu is an enthraling destination with a rich history and culture. The seventh largest Greek island, Corfu has been part of the Venetian, French, and British empires. This storied heritage marries diverse architecture, cuisine, and traditions with a cosmopolitan atmosphere, dazzling coastline, and bountiful food to deliver an irresistible island experience.
With its cobbled plazas and alleyways that date back to Roman times, Corfu’s Old Town is a historian’s dream. A Unesco World Heritage site, you’ll find ancient Greek temples, Venetian fortresses, British mansions, and French promenades reminiscent of Paris. It’s a stunning combination and the palaces, museums, and fine restaurants just add to the appeal. Don’t skip a stroll along the tree-lined Liston with a pit stop for a chilled spritz in one of the many cafes. The alluring Imperial Palace of Achillion, summer retreat of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, is free to visit and just a short drive from Corfu Town and don’t miss the New and Old Corfu Fortress and the Museum of Asian Art.
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Corfu is unusual for a Greek island, seeing quite a bit of rainfall in the off-season months which gives it a lush and green appearance. The climate is typically Mediterranean with average 32-degree temperatures over the summer months. If that’s a little too hot for your liking, May and September are probably the best times to visit. With more than 300 sunny days a year, you’re practically guaranteed to soak up some rays.
Greek food is a feast with Corfu’s island fare exceptional. Unmissable regional Corfiot dishes include bianco, fresh cod with potatoes in garlic and lemon sauce, and tsigareli, a dish of wild greens, onions, herbs and olive oil, finished with paprika. Other Greek favourites such as souvlaki, gyros, tzatziki, fish, and of course tomatoes, in any incarnation are all as fresh and enticing as you would expect. Greek orange cake (portokalopita) is delicious, and not quite as sickly sweet as baklava and the local kumquat liqueur makes a nice change from limoncello to finish off a meal. Controversial as it might be, you might find that Greek chips are the best kind and given the Italian connection, there are quite a few excellent Italian restaurants too should you tire of calamari, octopus, or tzatziki.
A precarious drive up a mountain brings you to the ancient village of Old Perithia, which dates from 1357. Nestled in the mountains, it’s Corfu’s oldest village and offers a glimpse into the island’s past with its stone houses and time-worn cobbled walkways. Wander through the ruins, enjoy a traditional meal at one of the local tavernas, and soak up the astonishing views and rural atmosphere. A meal in O Foros will likely be one of the best you’ll enjoy on the island — after all, if it’s good enough for Rick Stein. Lunch at O Foros will cost you no more than €25/30 with wine for a feast that will keep you sated until breakfast the next day.
If you were a fan of The Durrells TV series you will enjoy a visit to beautiful Kalami, an idyllic horseshoe shaped cove that author Lawrence Durrell and his family called home. Pay a visit to The White House, the whitewashed villa perched on the rocks that Durrell and his family lived in. The White House also inspired My Family and Other Animals, the autobiographical book by British naturalist Gerald Durrell, younger brother of Lawrence. You can book a stay (from €260 per night — the house sleeps eight) or just visit for an excellent meal cooked by Lefteris Lazarou, the first Greek chef to be awarded a Michelin star.
Corfu’s landscape is mesmerising. With its rolling hills blanketed with olive groves, cypress trees, and wildflowers, the island’s natural beauty is perfect for hiking, cycling, or simply enjoying a leisurely drive. The highest peak on the island is Mount Pantokrator which sits somewhat majestically at 911m above sea level. On the north east coast, the biodiverse headland of Erimitis with its lakes, wetlands, beaches, and sea caves is a wonderful place for nature lovers, photographers, or indeed anyone, to spend an afternoon.
For a truly unique day out, hire a motor boat on the ‘Northeast Riviera’ (about €150 plus fuel). A license is not required for engines up to 30HP so it’s a great way to discover hidden coves, private beaches, hard to reach restaurants, and the beautful coastline at your own pace. All boat hire businesses give great instruction before letting you loose and should you run into any trouble, they are quick to respond. Taverna Agni is one restaurant that’s worth donning your captain’s hat to visit and staff are well accustomed to guiding in novice skippers. A variety of restaurants along this stretch also offer a boat taxi service in the evenings as many of these coastal eateries are easier to reach by boat.
Like many of the Greek islands, Corfu offers day trips to the smaller islands, including Paxos and Antipaxos. The boat crossing takes around one hour on the fast boat and the island of Paxos is a fantastic place to while away a day. The main port of Gaios is a small, lively port town with pastel Venetian architecture, narrow side streets and a ‘perfect for people watching’ pedestrianised square. A day trip to Albania (either by ferry or on a private boat trip) is a great way to experience a new country too — just don’t forget your passport.
Corfu is a fantastic destination for families. With safe, sandy beaches, water parks, and adventure playgrounds, there’s plenty to keep the little ones entertained. Take a boat trip, explore ancient ruins, or visit the Corfu Aquarium for an educational and fun family day out. Corfu has something for everyone’s interests with its heritage, architecture, shopping, great food, water sports and miles of clean, sandy beaches.
Holidays can be costly so it’s some comfort to know that Corfu can be an affordable choice compared to many other Greek islands. The picturesque resort of Kassiopi on the north east coast is a great choice with basic but clean apartments from €50 per night. A traditional fishing village, Kassiopi has plenty of food and drink options, a gyros will set you back around €5, A visit to the Byzantine Kassiopi Castle or an afternoon on the beach or by the pool costs nothing and the supermarkets in the town cater to locals and tourists equally with prices that reflect just that.
Owned and run by one of the oldest families in Greece, Theotoky winery is the oldest on the island and is situated in the beautiful Ropa Valley, 17 km from Corfu Town. The 300-acre estate is a tranquil haven and one of the most ecologically aware places on the island and is famous for its fine wines, organic extra virgin olive oil, and olives. Book a walking tour with a wine and olive oil tasting with the option to add on some excellent nibbles.
Of course there are many nightclubs and late night spots on Corfu but apart from the histrionics of Kavos and a couple of other resorts, the nightlife in most places is low key and cocktail bar-centric. In swanky Agios Stefanos on the north east of the island, Wave Bar is open from early morning until the wee hours for excellent club sandwiches, some of the best cocktails on the island, and dancing, depending on what time you visit. In the resort of Paleokastritsa, La Grotta is a unique beach bar in a craggy cove on the edge of a crystal clear blue lagoon that has been welcoming guests since the 1960s.
Ryanair, Aer Lingus, and TUI all offer direct flights from Dublin to Corfu during summer with a flight time of around three-and-a-half hours.