Finding 'freedom time' on the relaxing, all-inclusive resort island of Cora Cora Maldives

As soon as I dunk my head a school of silver fish swims by. I’m barely a couple of feet deep.

I follow my group of snorkelers further into the water and within minutes, find myself in a scene similar to the opening sequence of Finding Nemo. Rainbow fish, royal blue tangs, clownfish, and Moorish idols are among those dancing and flitting by the coral. I allow myself to float, following eye-catching creatures for what feels like miles until I come up for air and take in my surroundings. Wispy white clouds fill the sky above me, shading the island from the sun and despite the surprisingly cool water, I can tell that the air is still hot.

Observing this small Maldivian island from afar, I see all its layers: the white sand, the lush green palms, and the string of floating bungalows linked by a meandering boardwalk.

After venturing to the edge of the lagoon the water changes from diaphanous turquoise to dark navy; this is the edge of the reef dropping off dramatically into the depths of the deep blue sea signalling time for my group and I to turn around and make our way back to the sandy shore.

Sitting amongst the 1,192 islands that make up the Maldives, my temporary island home is Cora Cora Maldives, an all-inclusive resort in the Raa Atoll, surrounded by a natural lagoon.

The final journey to this piece of paradise involved a 45-minute flight by sea plane from the Maldivian capital, Malé. Below us hundreds of islands bob like pearls in the water; some appear to be deserted, while others feature long boardwalks dotted with villas.

Maamigili. our destination, combines all that the Maldives is fabled for: turquoise waters; pristine beaches; stylish water bungalows; a lagoon teeming with lively fish. Elsewhere, in the centre of this private island, it feels more akin to a small jungle as fruit bats fly from one tree to the next and small geckos scurry across the sand.

“Freedom time” is the motto here: shoes are optional; bikes are readily available, and the weather is (almost) always great. Temporary ‘freedom’ tattoos on arrival are a constant reminder of this mantra — though the tranquil atmosphere, stunning surroundings, and humid conditions are enough to send anyone into a state of total relaxation.

I sit metres from my fishy friends for an evening meal at beachside restaurant Ginger Moon which is run by an all-female team. Our post-snorkel feast is enjoyed over a sunset before we fixate on the flashes of lightening that add brief moments of light to the now dark, star-filled sky. Loud rolls of thunder and rainy showers continue into the night clearing the clouds and paving the way for a sunshine-filled day.

Thankfully, this stormy night is a once-off. Watching the sunset with my feet in the sand as I sip on a cocktail becomes a regular act during my stay.

I sip morning coffee on my private deck with steps that lead directly into water so clear that I can see myriad colourful fish without the need for a snorkel.

The sound of a sea plane briefly disrupts the quiet of the morning as I soak in the sun. One couple is already swimming in the water, making the most of the beautiful day.

A roomy four-poster bed with views, a deep tub in my open-air bathroom, and a hammock perched above the ocean make this a perfect place to unwind or hide away. It’s beautifully romantic but indulgent enough to make it fun for one.

The option to draw the blinds offers privacy but with nothing save the vast Indian Ocean and a sliver of sand visible, it is easy to feel as though you are on your own desert island.

Feeling increasingly horizontal, a trip to the spa seems like a delightful idea. At Moksha I’m treated to a dreamy massage, my masseuse’s calming tone enhanced by the symphony of fish I watch through a glass floor as my knots are eased away.

This five-star resort proudly celebrates its island’s heritage and encourages visitors to learn about its roots through the on-site Dutch Onion Museum. Here, guests have the chance to learn more about Maamigili and the people who visited long ago.. The museum gets its name from Dutch “onion” bottles, favoured by mariners as personal bottles to store their wine or cider, with local alcohol replacing these beverages as sailors made their way around different countries.

Prior to its depopulation some 500 years ago, Maamigili was home to a lively community of people. Until recently, it was used by neighbouring inhabitants as a recreational island — before the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami destroyed their home of Kandholhudhoo. The island, which is now known as ‘Ghost Island’, is visible from Cora Cora Maldives and is one of the many reminders of the country’s recent past.

In 2004, 3,000 people lived on Kandholhudhoo (Ghost Island) when the tsunami hit and forced the inhabitants to evacuate. A large surge almost cleared the surrounding waters — so much so that people could reportedly walk to neighbouring islands before the tsunami hit the community early in the morning. During a private tour of the deserted island, we observe the eerie remains of a school and homes. Despite the damage elsewhere, the island’s mosque remains in near-perfect condition and was a source of refuge during the devastation.

Back at the Dutch Onion Museum, our guide Ibrahim talks of his 399 cousins. His family comes from Kandholhudhoo but they moved on following the tsunami. Most of the island’s ancient artefacts were uncovered during the construction of Cora Cora Maldives in 2011. The Voh of Maamigili on display in the Dutch Onion was discovered and raises questions about the island’s history. Its shape is rare, and its features resemble Byzantine or early Islamic lamps, suggesting connections between the Maldives and the Mediterranean.

Shards of Chinese porcelain found in Malé in the ’70s, date back to the 9th century and construction works on Maamigili, unearthed terracotta pots containing Chinese porcelain in near-perfect condition.

Like many of the other islands in the Maldives, Maamigili was once a popular stop-off for traders as they made their way across the Indian Ocean. Along with the Voh of Maamigili and Chinese porcelain, 446 artefacts were discovered here including turtle shells, coral and semi-precious stones that are estimated to be between 600 and 700 years old.

As we look at each piece, Ibrahim excitedly tells us about the 15th-century hand-written Quran that was discovered. He flicks through the pages filled with black and red ink as we stand in amazement. The ability to fully immerse ourselves in the history of these beautiful islands feels like the ultimate privilege.

A cruise on our final evening allows me to observe the island from afar once more while watching the pinky-orange hues of a Maldivian sunset. As we encircle the island, I embrace the opportunity to drink in the beauty of this tropical paradise. Drawing up at the island’s jetty, I imagine the many travellers who came before me and looked out at this island view. It may be very different today, but the roots of this fascinating island make it a worthy voyage of discovery all these centuries later.

Maeve was a guest of Cora Cora Maldives

Escape Notes

Qatar airlines flies from Dublin to Malé via Doha. Transfers to Cora Cora Maldives are arranged though their third-party transfer providers.

qatarairways.com

Seven-night premium all-inclusive stay based on two adults sharing a Lagoon Villa at Cora Cora Maldives, starts from $5,845 (approx €5,400). Prices include return seaplane transfers from Malé and all taxes. International flights are not included.

coracoraresorts.com