The insider's guide to North Kerry: 62 things to experience — plus reader recommendations

We’ve put together a guide to exploring these areas, with some of our tips for where to eat and sleep well around North Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula.

The highlights

Dingle is one of Kerry’s best-known towns, thanks in part to a famous dolphin that once resided in the bay. Fungie’s legacy is not forgotten however, and a 2.5-hour trip with Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours ( dingledolphin.com, €60) will take you around Dingle Bay and the Great Blasket Islands, to see landmarks and wildlife like seals, puffins and perhaps a dolphin or two. 

Get even closer to wildlife on a thrilling rib speedboat tour with Dingle Sea Safari ( dingleseasafari.com, €70). You can also learn about the sea life while remaining on dry land at Dingle Oceanworld Aquarium (dingle-oceanworld.ie, €20). 

Chat about your adventures afterwards in the historic Dick Mac’s Pub ( dickmackspub.com).

Exploring Dingle Peninsula, the Slea Head Drive is not to be missed, but a great way to see the area is on a hiking tour with Dingle Film Walks ( dinglefilmwalks.com, €75), to hear stories and see the locations from films like Ryan’s Daughter and Star Wars: The Last Jedi and others.

Photographers can learn the best places and times of day to capture this area on a tour with Dingle Darkroom ( dingledarkroom.com, from €45).

The Blasket Centre ( blasket.ie) is another highlight of the Slea Head Drive, where you can learn about the history and culture of the islands and the Irish language in the area. 

Take a six-hour tour from Dingle, which includes a stop on the islands, with The Great Blasket Experience ( greatblasketisland.net, €80).

Set on a bay with the backdrop of the Slieve Mish Mountains, Tralee (tralee.ie) is famous for its Rose of Tralee festival each August, but there’s lots to do here year-round. 

Exhibits at Kerry County Museum ( kerrymuseum.ie, €5) go back thousands of years, telling the history and the archaeology of Kerry — and at the Medieval Experience, you can stroll the streets of Tralee as they would have been in the year 1450. 

Also in Tralee is Siamsa Tíre Tralee ( siamsatire.com), Ireland’s national folk theatre (performances are paused for the summer, so check online).

Just outside town, Blennerville Windmill ( blennerville-windmill.ie, €6) is a restored windmill open for tours, where you can take in exhibits on emigration and the Kerry Model Railway Exhibition. To get there, take the 3km walk on the old Tralee Ship Canal towpath.

Listowel is the birthplace of some of Kerry’s best-loved writers such as John B Keane, and you can learn more at the Kerry Writers Museum ( kerrywritersmuseum.com, €10), next door to Listowel Castle (heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/listowel-castle/).

Further north, drop into Ballybunion for beaches, golf courses and to enjoy the Bromore Cliff Walk. 

On the north coast of county Kerry, Carrigafoyle Castle has a scenic spot in the River Shannon Estuary, while you can hop on a ferry from Tarbert across the Shannon to Killimer in Co Clare, to continue your adventure.

Hidden gems

Take a guided or self-guided nature tour at Tralee Bay Wetlands Eco and Activity Park ( traleebaywetlands.org, €3), to the west of Tralee, to learn all about the small creatures that live in and around ponds, from insects to dragonflies and frogs, on a 22-acre nature reserve. 

Or underground, marvel at the unusual limestone formations, stalagmites and stalactites on a tour of Crag Cave ( cragcave.com, €17), which dates back more than a million years.

The Kingdom of Kerry Greenways ( kerrygreenways.ie), following the old Limerick to Kerry railway line, are popular for walking and cycling. 

The Listowel to Abbeyfeale Greenway is a 16km route which connects with the Limerick Greenway, while the 13.6km Tralee to Fenit Greenway starts at Tralee train station and runs along the estuary, with views of Tralee Bay and Mount Brandon, plus Fenit Beach at the end. 

Get your wheels from Tralee Bike Rentals ( traleebikerental.ie) or Like Bikes (likebikes.ie) in Listowel.

In Fenit, you can arrange a special tour to the lighthouse ( fenitwithout.ie/fenit-lighthouse-tours) or see it from a kayak on the lighthouse tour with Wild Water Adventures (wildwateradventures.ie, €55).

Sheltered by the Slieve Mish mountains, Glanteenassig on the Dingle Peninsula has 450 hectares of forest, mountains, lakes and bog, with three walking trails, all with mountain views and a remote feel. 

Near Tralee, the shorter Ballyseede Wood trail is a looped 1.5km woodland walk past streams and Ballyseede Castle.

Eating out and coffee stops

You’re never too far from fresh seafood in Kerry — for a menu based on the day’s catch, check out Out Of The Blue in Dingle (@ootbdingle), or try the Fish Box Dingle (@thefishboxdingle), where the daily catches come straight from their trawler.

For wine and small plates, some featuring local meats and cheeses, don’t miss Solas Tapas Dingle (@solastapasdingle).

Seafood lovers can tuck into local crab craws and prawns at the Oyster Tavern (@oystertavernkerry) near Tralee, while in Listowel, don’t miss Lizzy’s Little Kitchen (@lizzyslittlekitchen_listowel) for healthy plant-based lunches.

For fine dining, book the restaurant at Teach de Broc country house in Ballybunion (@teachdebroc), while the more informal Marine Café and Bakery (@themarine.ie) has divine beach views and tasty sausage rolls.

Great coffee (and cake!) spots

On Slea Head, don’t miss The Stonehouse Restaurant (066-9159970) for coffee and treats like locally-made Ealu chocolate (@ealuchocolate), with super views over the Atlantic.

Check out the coffee roasts and cinnamon buns at Bean in Dingle (@beanindingle) and don’t miss Murphy’s Ice Cream (@murphysicecream) for flavours like Irish brown bread and Dingle sea salt.

In Fenit, Mike’s Beach Shop and Café (@beachcafefenit) is right next to the strand, while Navo Café (@navocafe) is popular for its breakfast bagels. The courtyard at Madden’s in Tralee (@maddenstralee) is another great spot for coffee and cake.

Delightful digs

North Kerry has a great selection of small hotels and guesthouses for interesting stays and many of them are family-run. On the Dingle Peninsula, The Ceann Sibéal Hotel ( ceannsibealhotel.com) in Ballyferriter is an ideal stop along the Slea Head Drive if you want to take your time.

In Dingle town, Castlewood House ( castlewooddingle.com) overlooks the bay and serves up a tasty breakfast, while it’s hard to beat the stunning sea views from Pax House (pax-house.com).

In Tralee, you’ll find the stylish boutique hotel, the Ashe Hotel ( theashehotel.ie) or book into the Ballygarry Estate Hotel and Spa (ballygarry.com) at the foot of the mountains for some pampering.

In Ballybunion, golfers should check out Teach de Broc ( ballybuniongolf.com) while The Marine boutique hotel (themarine.ie) is a seaside haven.

Five of the Best Beaches

Coumeenole Beach on the Slea Head Drive for walks along rocky cliffs and views of the Blasket Islands (but not for swimming).

Ballybunion (North and South beaches), overlooked by the castle, for swimming and relaxed strolls. The beaches have lifeguards in summer.

Ballyheigue Beach is the start of 10km stretch of dune-backed beach and is ideal for swimming.

Maharabeg Beach is a special area of conservation and popular for swimming, with lifeguards in summer.

Fenit Beach for a designated swim course with buoys, plus lifeguards during summer.

Readers recommend

Book an oyster workshop with @heyoysome by brilliant chef and former Taste the Atlantic Young chef ambassador @sarahdebrun - Ruth Hegarty

If you love watersports we highly recommend Brandon Bay on the Dingle Peninsula for great waves, followed by a drive over the stunning Conor Pass into Dingle to eat at Out Of The Blue, a pint in Dick Mac’s and check out our new shop! - Dingle Surf

Kayaking with Wild Water Adventures in Fenit or rent a bike from Tralee Hike Bike and cycle the Greenway.

For cafés, Mike’s Cafe in Fenit and Madden’s in Tralee Town and there’s Weardrobe boutique in Tralee (for women’s fashion). - Pamela Prendiville