The kingdom of South Kerry: 52 things to experience — plus your reader recommendations

We’ve put together a comprehensive guide for exploring South Kerry, from old favourites to undiscovered delights and more than dash of local input!

The highlights

South Kerry draws the crowds, especially in the summer months, with plenty to see and do – but there’s space to get off the beaten path too. 

The buzzing town of Killarney makes a good base and offers easy access to essential attractions. A good start or end point for the Ring of Kerry, there’s a good choice of food, accommodation and a lively pub scene.

Killarney National Park has a dramatic setting where the mountains sweep down to the lakes, and there’s plenty of woodland and trails to explore. 

The grounds of Muckross House and Gardens ( muckross-house.ie, €9) are a good entry point (don’t miss the Garden Restaurant and shop), while Torc Waterfall (free entry), 7km from Killarney town, is particularly full after heavy rain. 

For a new perspective on the park, sign up for a half-day tour with Killarney Photo Tour ( killarneyphototours.ie, from €80). 

After seeing the tower house at Ross Castle ( heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/ross-castle/, €5), take a boat trip to Inishfallen Island on Lough Leane (visitinnisfallen.com/island-tours, €15) for wildlife and the ruins of an old priory.

Also nearby is one of Kerry’s most spectacular mountain passes, the wild and rugged Gap of Dunloe, popular for walking, cycling or jarvey (horse-drawn) tours. 

A nice way to see it is on a bike-on-boat or bus-and-boat tour with Gap of Dunloe Tours ( gapofdunloetours.com, from €25).

The popular Ring of Kerry circular drive will take you 179km around the Iveragh Peninsula. From Killarney, travel west towards Killorglin and follow the coastal route anti-clockwise from there. 

For a pedestrian version, walk some of the 214km Kerry Way ( kerryway.com) which starts and ends in Killarney, following the ancient paths in the hills around the Iveragh Peninsula and passing the lower hills of the MacGillycuddy Reeks range. 

The trail takes 9 or 10 days to walk, but for something shorter, the Lickeen Loop is a lovely one-hour walk along the Caragh River, with views of the Reeks (turn off at Glenbeigh).

Back on the main road, Cahersiveen town is a popular stop on the Ring of Kerry — turn off here for Valentia island, where you can sign up for a one-hour Valentia Lighthouse tour ( valentialighthouse.ie, €7.50) to learn what life was like for lighthouse keepers. 

Sitting out in the Atlantic, 13km from here are the two rocky Skellig Islands.

With its 6th-century monastery and stone huts, Skellig Michael was made famous with its appearance in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. 

At the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre ( skelligexperience.com, €5), you can learn about the history of the islands, the monks and the bird life there today.

Various operators run boat trips out to the islands (weather depending) from Portmagee, or for views from the shore, drive the looped Skellig Ring to take in the elevated viewpoint at Coomanaspic.

Following the Ring of Kerry clockwise, you will come to the charming town of Kenmare, where you can browse for treats at Lorge Chocolatier (lorge.ie), check for art exhibitions at the Kenmare Butter Market, which dates from the early 1800s (kenmarebuttermarket.org) or join an entertaining Kenmare Foodie tour (kenmarefoodies.com, €85) to taste everything from local cheeses to beer.

Hidden gems

While exploring the ring of Kerry, look out for the wood-powered Skellig Sauna at Cuas Crom Beach near Cahersiveen, Ballinskelligs Bay, or St Finian’s Bay on the Skellig Ring, where you can warm up after a refreshing sea swim ( skelligsauna.ie, from €10). 

Ice-cream fanatics shouldn’t miss Valentia Island Farmhouse Dairy ( valentiaisland.ie/accommodation_eat/valentia-island-farmhouse-dairy), where you can tuck into homemade ice cream from the milk of the grazing herd of cows while enjoying the views.

Learn more about the ‘cow-to-cone’ ice cream process on a farm tour at Muckross Creamery ( muckrosscreamery.ie, €55). 

Or if seaweed is more your thing, hit the shoreline with Atlantic Irish Seaweed for a seaweed discovery walk and nibbles on treats like dulse or nori ( atlanticirishseaweed.com, €60).

Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve is one of the area’s best-kept secrets. Thanks to a lack of light pollution, on a clear night it is one of the best places to spot the constellations and Milky Way ( kerrydarkskytourism.com, free) –– Derrynane Beach and Staigue Fort are good viewing spots.

The tranquil waters of Kenmare Bay are perfect for a guided kayak or paddleboard tour with Emerald Outdoors ( emeraldoutdoors.ie, €65) –– book a place on their night kayaking tours for a chance to spot bioluminescence in the water (season-depending) or admire the stars overhead.

If Killarney National Park is busy, dip south from Kenmare onto the Kerry side of the Beara Peninsula for Gleninchaquin Park ( gleninchaquin.com, €7), where you’ll find trails through a dazzling mountain landscape, a waterfall, and picnic spots. 

Afterwards, book a session in Kerry Sauna (@sunsetsaunakerry) at nearby Coornagillagh to ease post-hike muscles.

Eating out

With farms, lush landscapes for grazing and plenty of piers for landing catches from the Atlantic, you will eat well in South Kerry and super views are often a bonus. 

On the Ring of Kerry, enjoy the amazing vistas over a tasty breakfast from The Beachcove Café in Waterville (@beachcove_waterville), while Driftwood Surf Café (@driftwoodsurfcafe) at St Finian’s Bay has views out to the Skelligs and the freshest seafood with black sole, lobster and crab claws regularly featuring.

Also with sea views and specialising in seafood, with oysters, scallops and monkfish regularly appearing on the menu is Jack’s in Cromane (@jackscromane), while Kingdom 1795 in Killorglin offers a fine dining menu using tasty local and seasonal ingredients, in the cosy atmosphere of a former pub setting. 

For something more informal, try The Oratory Pizza and Wine Bar in Cahersiveen (@theoratorypizza), for a simple menu with best Italian meats and cheeses, or drop into QCs Seafood Bar (@quinlanandcooke), where the family’s fish company brings in the best and freshest wild Irish fish, such as prawns, squid and salmon.

Staying in Killarney? Boxty potato pancakes are the signature dish at Bricín (@bricinrestaurant) while during the day, Luna (@lunacoffeewine) is the perfect spot for a relaxed lunch, with tasty salads, artisan sandwiches, and a list of organic, natural and biodynamic wines.

Kenmare has a well-deserved reputation as a food hub at the family-run No35 (@no35kenmare), look out for dishes made with free-range pork from its own farm, while Lagom (lagom_kenmare) uses local produce to create a menu of balance and harmony –– the harmony theme continues with its Scandi-style cosy rooms upstairs for overnighting. 

For coffee and to browse books, drop in to Puccinis (@pucciniskenmare) or if you’re planning a day trip, make sure to pack some tasty French pastries from Maison Gourmet (@maisongourmetkenmare).

A South Kerry tipple

The clear water, fresh air and botanicals of South Kerry have inspired all types of drinks from ales to artisan gins. 

At McGill’s Brewery in Waterville, you can learn about the hand-crafted local beers before tasting them (mcgillsbrewery.com, €20), while tours at Skellig Six 18 Distillery (skelligsix18distillery.ie/€19) demonstrate how the spirits use local botanicals.

Honouring the famous Irish Antarctic explorer’s legacy is Tom Crean Brewery in Kenmare (tomcreanbrewerykenmare.ie, tours €20), while a tour at Killarney Brewing and Distilling Company (killarneybrewingdistilling.com, €30) ends with a tasting of its local spirits and beers. 

Whiskey lovers shouldn’t miss the 50-minute ‘Spirit of the Sea’ tour at Portmagee Whiskey, combining whiskey tasting with adventure and history stories ( portmageewhiskey.com, €30).

Delightful digs

There’s accommodation for all budgets and tastes in South Kerry, whether you’re splashing out somewhere like the five-star The Europe Hotel and Resort just outside Killarney, with its panoramic dining room, spa and outdoor hot tubs overlooking Lough Leane, or looking for a warm welcome from somewhere like Helen’s Bar and B&B in Tuosist, a cosy pub where the simple rooms have harbour views.

Kenmare makes a great base also, with luxury outposts like Sheen Falls Lodge and The Park Hotel.

For chic glamping try the luxury safari tents at Dromquinna Manor with their own decks or Oaklane Glamping set on a sheep farm with heavenly views from bespoke cabins with outdoor seating and a new yoga platform.

On the Ring of Kerry, Parknasilla Resort and Spa near Sneem also offers self-catering lodges alongside panoramic views of the bay and adventures like kayaking or night-sky tours. 

In Glenbeigh on the other side of the peninsula, you can soak up the sea air and old-world atmosphere at the Glenbeigh Hotel.

Readers recommend

• Luna in Killarney for coffee and snacks, Pollys in The Ross in Killarney for a cocktail, Mulcahy’s in Kenmare for dinner and Maison Gourmet in Kenmare for coffee and pastry. - Eimear Griffin
• Best place for sunsets - The Rosspoint in Rossbeigh. Also the Rossbeigh Strand for ice creams with a view! - Kevin Briscoe
• Derrynane Beach for swimming and walking. Ahamore Tearooms behind Daniel O’Connell’s house for delicious homemade cakes and scones. - Deirdre Harbison
• Sugrue’s restaurant on the square in Castletownbere. Brilliant seafood at prices that make a Dub weep, superb place. And for a drink, McCarthy’s Bar. - Brendan McGrath
• Off the between track, I’d recommend a hike in Lickeen Woods, then the Climbers Inn for food in Glencar. - Sinead Leane

{ Reader Remendations