Crystal clear: 48 hours in Waterford - and the Déise County's splendour
The Viaduct Kilmacthomas
As I pedal along the final stretch of the Waterford Greenway, I look up from my handlebars and am met with a breathtaking scene that makes the final push on my 46km journey much easier.
For the past couple of kilometres, I have been surrounded by green fields but at last, I am faced with the view I have been waiting for.
Slowly coming into focus ahead of me is the sea. The water glistens under the light of a fine afternoon in the sunny southeast as I make my way to Dungarvan town.
It may be the relief of knowing that I am reaching the end of my long self-propelled journey, but the last stretch of path cycling beside the shore feels nothing less than euphoric.
As a welcome breeze whisps past, I make my way through the town, daydreaming of the fish and chip dinner that is waiting for me on the other side.
Dungarvan is the final stop along the Waterford Greenway route from Waterford City. Having set off at 11am, and with plenty of breaks and pit stops, I arrive in Dungarvan after 3pm.
My route along the Greenway has been dotted with landmarks, and by the time I reach my final stop, I feel like I have lived two days in one.
The car-free pathway, which first opened in 2017, follows the line of the River Suir against the backdrop of the Comeragh Mountains and includes eleven bridges, three viaducts and a 400m tunnel.
About 3km in, a stop at Kilmeaden is akin to a scene from a storybook.
Small children line up excitedly for their trip aboard the Waterford and Suir Valley Heritage Train while those of us mid-Greenway cycle tuck into sandwiches and ice cream from the aptly named Whistlestop Café.
Back in the saddle, we revel in the views as we cycle amid vibrant fields of green and alongside the rushing river.
The site of the dramatic Kilmacthomas Viaduct stops us in our tracks, its impressive arches curving high into the air.
Later we reach the 400m-long Ballyvoyle Tunnel, a narrow railway tunnel built in 1878 and no longer used by trains.
With moss-covered walls, it has an enchanting aura that propels me back to the feeling of being in a storybook. The dainty fairy doors located further along the journey make it even more dream-like.
Following another scenic stop at the Ballyvoyle Viaduct, it isn’t long before the ocean is in our sights.
Despite the distance, the electric bike I hired has done the hard work, powering me along the 46km journey. Whatever your mode of transport, the ever-changing views all the way to Dungarvan are worth it.
A day of cycling is topped off with a seaside classic - fish and chips from Dungarvan’s destination chippie, AndChips.
Owned by chef and Dungarvan native, Eunice Power, I have been looking forward to sampling the fare from this celebrated chip shop all day.
On a sunny Sunday afternoon, the place is packed. Taking a seat on a bench outside, I tuck in - after a full day of cycling, any meal probably would have tasted great, but AndChips hype is well deserved.
A step above the typical takeaway, I would happily cycle 46km to taste their scampi again.
Waterford City is no slouch when it comes to good food either, its historic streets are lined with buzzy bars and restaurants.
Checked into the central Dooley’s Hotel, handily situated across the road from Waterford Bus Station, it’s the perfect base for this whirlwind Waterford trip.
Run by the Darrer family for over 70 years, there’s hospitality in the DNA here, starting with the warm welcome on arrival.
As evening closes in, a short stroll from the hotel to a dinner reservation is made extra special by a live band that has set up at the Apple Market.
Tucked in along John Street, Bodega is abuzz with happy diners, and I’m shown to a cosy booth with a bird’s eye view of the room.
The Mediterranean menu includes plenty of name-checked Irish produce, though I bypass the interesting seafood selection (think gambas al pil pil, and monkfish scampi fritters) in favour of an old classic, chicken supreme.
Fresh and delicious, I am even more impressed by my cocktail: a margarita that earns a place on my ‘Best cocktails I’ve ever tasted’ list, followed by a fudgy and gorgeous chocolate brownie.
Ireland’s oldest city is waiting for me next morning, its historical landmarks drawing me in every direction. A newer-yet-old landmark is Waterford Crystal, established as far back as 1783 and a huge draw for international visitors.
Our tour group at the House of Waterford Crystal is made up of mostly American tourists, both couples and families of all ages.
Led by Mary, a fantastic guide, we are taken through the entire process of creating a piece of sparkling, pristine Waterford Crystal.
Stops along the way include the blowing department where glowing balls of molten crystal are transformed into their desired shape, and the mould room, where we are surrounded by wooden moulds for special pieces such as trophies.
Noticing one with ‘Justin Timberlake written on it, Mary explains that Timberlake commissioned a piece for a charity golf tournament and even took part in a factory tour of his own.
Of course, the former NSYNC member is not the only famous face to pay a visit. In 2022, Britain’s King Charles and his wife Camillia also took a tour of the factory.
Overall, the 50-minute tour is just the right amount of time, and I notice the younger tourists are still engaged come our final stop, snapping pictures of giant Waterford Crystal snowmen, nutcrackers and crystal Viking helmets.
With a jam-packed itinerary, I have made the most of my 48 or so hours in Waterford.
Between tours, great food and a full day of activity, the Déise has delivered.
The real highlight for me is the Waterford Greenway: whether you take on the entire 46km route or just a small section, it’s a rewarding tourist attraction worth seeking out – especially with that knock-out scampi waiting for you at the end.
- Maeve was a guest of Visit Waterford
Bikes can be hired by Waterford Greenway Cycle Tours and Bike Hire.
Electric bikes cost around €35 each to hire, while hybrids are around €20.
However, they are a great option for anyone who wants to see the entire Greenway but maybe a little anxious about undertaking such a large stretch.