48 hours in Sofia: Getting around Bulgaria's capital like a local
Alexander Cathedral Nevski In Sofia, Bulgaria
If you love domes, spires, frescoes, and the hushed reverence of religious spaces, Sofia will immediately have you under its spell.
From the gold-capped St Alexander-Nevsky Cathedral and the ancient necropolis beneath St Sofia Basilica, to the ornate Banya Bashi Mosque and the Ottoman-era St Petka Church — which is surrounded by the ruins of ancient Roman temples — Bulgaria’s capital has countless religious edifices.
See four of the main religions — Orthodox Christian, Roman Catholic, Muslim, and Judaism — represented in The Square of Tolerance.
Of the city’s 30 museums, Sofia’s Regional History Museum shouldn’t be missed.
Housed in a former bath complex (the floor tiles bear witness to this past, as do the fountains outside where you can fill your bottle with mineral-rich waters) around 120,000 objects are exhibited in eight themed halls.
Spanning a period from 6000BCE to the 1940s, expect to see items ranging from ancient pottery to the dazzlingly regal carriage of Bulgaria’s King Ferdinand.
Enjoy the striped facade and arched windows from outside, before making your way in.
Bulgaria was under Communist rule until 1989, and traces of this relatively recent history can still be seen on many levels in Sofia — not least in the architecture.
For a compelling insight into how ordinary people lived during this era, prioritise a visit to The Red Flat. This downtown apartment will transport you back to the ‘80s and immerse you in the lives of the fictional Petrov family.
You are encouraged to interact with the objects in their home and listen to recordings detailing the minutiae of their daily lives. Expect to spend up to two hours here.
Set in a park away from the main road, you’d easily miss this greenhouse-style restaurant.
The clientele is largely local and the food is not only delicious, but plentiful, with huge portions suited to everyone from carnivores to vegans.
Dishes include traditional bean stew, stuffed cabbage leaves, fried lamb brain, and pork neck steak.
Expect to pay around 50.00lv/ €25.60 for a two-course meal for two, with a bottle of good local wine.
- Pirotska, Park Sv. Nikola-Gradinkata St.
A food-focused exploration— what could be better, especially when it’s free?
Balkan Bites run daily tours (reservations recommended) taking guests on a culinary and historical trip through Sofia and some of its authentic eateries, with samples provided along the way.
It’s no substitute for a full meal, but gives you an insider’s view into where and what to eat, as well as the local significance of certain foods.
Meet in front of the bust of Stefan Stambolov, at Park Crystal, for a 2pm departure. Tipping is appreciated.
Enter through an unremarkable door into another world. As one of only 12 guests, you can expect over 20 courses with various wine pairings over a three to four hour sitting, presided over by the enthusiastic and knowledgeable Chef Petrov, whose stories bring each course to life.
Guests describe the experience as “theatre” and the food as “Michelin quality”.
Quite literally a feast for all the senses and, at 229.80lv/€117 for the whole experience (including seven wines), it’s a bargain.
With its location directly in front of the Alexander-Nevsky Cathedral, there’s no doubt that this flea market is aimed at tourists — but that doesn’t make it any less fascinating.
Rifle through tables cluttered with tarnished medals, buckles, coins, old dolls, jewellery, musical instruments, and cameras.
You’ll also encounter large quantities of Soviet and Nazi memorabilia, which can be rather disconcerting.
Nearby, elderly local women sell traditional rugs, fabrics, and hand-knitted socks. Haggling is essential.
After the fall of communism, many homeowners converted their basements into shops — selling alcohol, cigarettes, and household products.
Customers would have to “klek” — squat, or kneel — on the pavement to make a purchase.
Increasingly, these klek shops are being repurposed as bars and art spaces, or simply falling into disuse, but buying something from one is an experience unique to Sofia.
Head to the corner of Stefan Karadzha and Georgi S Rakovski to find one that’s still fully operational.
Lose yourself in the work of traditional Bulgarian artisans at the Center of Folk Arts and Crafts.
Established in 1993 by a master jeweller, it brings together the work of over 300 craftsmen from all over Bulgaria: Expect to find musical instruments, puppets, icon paintings, embroidery, leather goods and smithery, as well as rose oil — of which Bulgaria is one of the world’s largest producers.
Look also for ceramics, such as “gyuveche” — traditional Bulgarian cooking pots — and wooden “palamarka”, historically used to protect the hands while scything.
Of By Backdropped The Is Closest Is Vitosha Mountains, Sofia Which
The Enjoy Place Popular Trails Waterfalls, To It’s Great Some In And Many With A Time Outdoors Its
The Mall The From Take Gorgeous Offers And Paradise Surrounding (near The Vitosha Which Your Park Views Distance But Over You Bus Thing, To Even Short Is Metro The Peak Way Hotel A From The Isn’t If Nature All Station) 66 Can Hiking Moreni,
With 22 guest rooms, quirky decor and a range of artworks, this delightful little hotel is housed in a converted period property on a quiet side street.
Guests are treated to free drinks and snacks in the lobby bar throughout the day, and to wine, hors d’oeuvres and entertainment from 6-8pm daily.
There’s also a rooftop terrace and fitness facilities. Breakfast is included.
Arguably the best of Sofia’s 5-star offerings, this luxury hotel is centrally located, with most of the main sights within a ten-minute walk.
The opulent decor of the on-site Shades of Red restaurant perfectly complements the standard of the menu, while the daily Grand Breakfast offers masses of choice.
The enormous rooms range from 50 sqm to 140 sqm and are beautifully furnished, while impeccable service greets you at every turn.
Opened in 2013, the 67-room Sense Hotel Sofia occupies a prime location on Sofia’s main boulevard, Tsar Osvoboditel.
Expect fantastic views from many of the rooms, as well as from the restaurant and rooftop bar.
Top-notch fitness facilities, including four treatment rooms and three pools, ease the disappointment of there no longer being working thermal baths in the city.
An informative and helpful concierge service provides insider recommendations and intel on current events.