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Travel review: Hidden gem Garrison House in Elizabeth Fort is Cork's best-kept secret

"Beyond the historic walls (and a canon or two), an impressive courtyard opens up to reveal a terrace of barrack buildings which date from a century ago."
Travel review: Hidden gem Garrison House in Elizabeth Fort is Cork's best-kept secret

Fort Elizabeth

Could this be Cork City’s best kept accommodation secret? Garrison House, a former barrack townhouse property set within the grounds of one of Cork’s best heritage attractions, Elizabeth Fort, is a unique urban base under the stewardship of the Irish Landmark Trust, and this month, I went to pay a visit to what can justly be described as a true hidden gem within a hidden gem.

After arriving to the impressive attraction of Elizabeth Fort just off Barrack Street, I was welcomed to the site by house manager Geraldine O’Sullivan who rattled her key through the gate of the 17th-century fortress before ushering me in — you could say this is the most unique of check-ins! 

Beyond the historic walls (and a canon or two), an impressive courtyard opens up to reveal a terrace of barrack buildings which date from a century ago. 

They include a former Garda station, now the fortress museum, and the offices of the Visit Cork tourism brand, as well two former barracks houses under the Irish Landmark Trust, which are available to rent.

There’s Garrison House, where I was staying for the night, and just next door, its twin property Parade House, which much to my surprise was vacant for the night.

That meant, however, come close of business for the fort, this historic Cork site was my personal demesne and I was the de facto gatekeeper.

A room at Garrison House in Cork
A room at Garrison House in Cork

Like all Irish Landmark Trust properties, Garrison House is sensitively appointed, in this case keeping in fashion with its 1930s heyday. It contains a period dining room complete with toasty fire stove, vintage furnishing and a pop of ornamentation (think porcelain Cavalier King Charles). There’s a well-kitted out galley kitchen while upstairs features a bathroom (shower only) and two period bedrooms with wrought iron beds and original fireplaces.

Views from upstairs range across the city, from The Elysian to St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, and they remind you, given the air of solitude, that you’re in the beating heart of Cork City. And the beauty of renting a self-catering property on Leeside was that I could avail of both the city’s farm fresh produce (for example, popping down to the English Market for a cheese board to die for) and great food spots, from the Good Day Deli for brunch to Miyazaki just across the road for Japanese takeaway. 

Also, after sleeping remarkably soundly in that period bedroom (I guess those fortress walls insulated me from a bit of noise), the next morning I’d the novelty of being able to ramble across the fort walls before they opened to the public at 10am. If that isn’t enough of a USP, this month also saw the launch of a new cultural events stage at Elizabeth Fort where various musical and artistic events are literally on your doorstep.

My stay at Elizabeth Fort made for an outstanding accommodation experience. Potential niggles could be its 10am check-out, no on-site parking (though I paid less than a tenner for overnight parking on the Grand Parade) and that there is no TV or Wi-Fi. However the highlights of staying in a beautifully restored property which transports you to yesteryear, all within an ancient heritage site, easily trump any gripes. So if you’re seeking a unique stay in the city, Elizabeth Fort may well set your new bastion of standards.

Rates for Elizabeth Fort start from €201 per night (two night minimum) with each property sleeping three. (Tom was a guest of the trust.)

A suite at Roseville House
A suite at Roseville House

NEWS/DEALS OF THE WEEK

Roseville in Bloom

For a decent value coastal escape, pop Roseville House in Youghal on your staycation shortlist. Located in the heart of the historic East Cork town, the Georgian property has just enjoyed a fresh refurb, with locally-based designer Catherine O’Flynn offering a stylish makeover to Roseville’s spacious garden suites. Rates start from €138 including delicious Continental breakfast delivered to your room.

New air routes

If you’re seeking a fresh route to France this summer, Kerry Airport has just launched two new routes to très belle Brittany. The services aboard French regional carrier Chalair will fly to the gateways of Quimper and Brest every Saturday from July 1 with fares starting from €150 return ( chalair.fr). Cork Airport also launched their summer schedule this week with exciting new routes ranging from Seville to Venice Treviso.

Castlemartyr's Terre Kitchen
Castlemartyr's Terre Kitchen

Castlemartyr Star

Terre has hit the ground running, as this week, Castlemartyr Resort’s new fine dining restaurant was awarded a Michelin Star in a huge PR boost for the five star hotel. To celebrate, the hotel are currently offering a reduced midweek rate from €630 where guests can enjoy an overnight stay in a deluxe room along with dinner for two in Terre restaurant (excl. beverages) where you can expect a dining experience par excellence courtesy of Head Chef Vincent Crepel.

Kerry Greenways

This week also saw the launch of Ireland’s latest open-air amenity with the official opening of the Kerry Greenway. The Kingdom of Kerry Greenways follow the old Limerick to Kerry railway line and currently include two routes, between Tralee and Fenit, and Listowel and Abbeyfeale where the Listowel route connects to the existing Limerick Greenway.

Deals of the Week

For some summer holiday inspiration, Irish operator Sunway are offering package deals from all the country’s main airports. From Dublin, seven night self-catering breaks are available for Cyprus from €665pps (dep. Jun 5); from Cork, enjoy a B&B stay in Majorca from €535pps (dep. Jun 1); from Shannon, €845pps buys a three star B&B hotel stay in Sorrento (dep. Jun 14); while from Knock, a four star hotel stay on the Costa Del Sol is available from €999pps.

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