Christmas in New York: Travel beyond Manhattan for a bigger slice of the Apple

I was in Newark Liberty International Airport, on my way to “be a part of it,” as the iconic Frank Sinatra song goes, and with just 48 hours to make the most of it, I was fully prepared to embrace the “city that never sleeps” aspect of the Big Apple.

Some 6.5m people are expected to visit New York over the festive period this year, according to the city’s tourism board NYC & Company, and it’s likely the majority of tourists will end up in Manhattan.

The most densely populated of the city’s five boroughs, it’s home to many iconic landmarks you will recognise from classic holiday movies, from Elf to Home Alone to Miracle on 34th Street. 

There’s the bustling Radio City Music Hall, where thousands queue in freezing temperatures in the hopes of scoring a ticket to the Christmas Spectacular show, and, of course, the Rockefeller ice-rink which is overlooked by an 82ft Christmas tree adorned with more than 50,000 multicolored LED lights and a three-dimensional Swarovski crystal star topper reportedly worth some $1.5m. 

Then, there are the iconic window displays, from Saks on Fifth Avenue to Macy’s on 34th Street.

It’s all very magical — and very costly.

With the current exchange rate around €1 = $1.05, and an almost 9% sales tax added to most purchases, your cash doesn’t go far in a city that knows how to charge.

In Starbucks, I am charged close to $19 for a latte with hazelnut syrup, a granola bar, and a pain au chocolat (a very painful chocolate treat indeed), while at Top of the Rock, a sign lets me know that if I want a photo with Santa I need to be prepared to cough up $55. 

I am inclined to recommend the city’s newest, Instagram famous attraction, Summit One Vanderbilt, as a must see — but a ticket that will get you to the top starts at $59 (Top of the Rock tickets are more reasonable, from $34, and you get a fuller, 360 view of the city).

So, what’s a 20-something Irish girl with limited funds to do? Head east.

Luxury for less

Instead of staying in the heart of Manhattan, why not stay in a borough such as Queens? Not only will you get to explore an area less prone to stress-inducing crowds, but you’ll get similar luxury for a fraction of the price. 

We stayed at the Renaissance New York Flushing Hotel at Tangram, which, last weekend, was priced at around €291 a night. The same hotel’s Times Square hotel was charging upwards of €840.

The hotel at Flushing offered skyline views of the city, with nearby La Guardia airport’s landing strip viewable from the penthouse bar’s impressive glass surroundings.

There’s an Olympic pool in the works, an expansive fitness centre with yoga, massage, and rooftop tennis, with rainfall showers in the bathrooms and Aveda amenities. But while the hotel itself was impressive, and within walking distance from Flushing’s subway station, it’s a bit of a trek from Manhattan.

A bigger slice of the apple

A better base for a tourist eager to see both landmarks and hidden gems might be nearby Astoria. A neighbourhood in the western portion of Queens, Time Out named it one of the 10 coolest neighborhoods in the world back in 2019. 

There’s plenty to do in the area, with the interactive Moving Image Museum — one of the highlights of my trip, along with boutique and vintage shopping and a much greater variety of food establishments on offer.

Traditionally home to a large concentration of Greeks, we were recommended a number of Greek restaurants and cafes in the area, but there was also plenty of Italian, Mexican, Bangladeshi, Indian, Japenese, and traditional American joints to be found. 

On Saturday, we grabbed lunch in Sunswick, which was both delicious and good value for money. For $14, we got the biggest BLT grilled cheese sandwich I’ve ever seen, complete with a substantial bowl of equally delicious tomato soup. It kept us going long into the evening.

Twenty minutes or so on the subway to Manhattan, depending on where you’re going, Astoria is a good base to explore while not being far from the heart of it. If you do venture out further to Flushing as we did (around 50 minutes on the subway) Queens Museum is worth a visit, even just for The Panorama of the City of New York alone. 

Across from the museum’s entrance, in Flushing Meadows-Corona Park, you’ll also see The Unisphere, a spherical stainless steel representation of the Earth that has made appearances in a host of Marvel films.

In Long Island City, another short subway ride away from Astoria or Flushing, Moma PS1 is a well-regarded art gallery worth a visit. Queens Public Library at Hunters Point is also in the vicinity, and if you walk past the library towards the waterfront, you’ll find one of the best photo points in the city for a snap of the Manhattan skyline.

I could have hung around there all night, but with bellies rumbling, we headed for dinner at nearby The Baroness which reportedly serves the best burger in Queens — we can’t verify this, but it was good. Burgers started at $13, with most between the $16-$20 mark. There was also a $2.99 fee for using your credit card, and an automatic tip of 20% added to bills for groups of four or more. All worth bearing in mind when it comes to the final tab.

Top tip: If you’re exploring an area like Flushing or Astoria, it’s well worth getting in touch with NYC initiative, Big Apple Greeter. Since 1992, the group has been pairing visitors to New York City with volunteer “greeters” who are prepared to dedicate two to four hours sharing their personal knowledge and love of their home with you, completely free of charge.

Party like a New Yorker

For a taste of New York nightlife, it’s worth putting some pennies aside for a night in the West Village. The neighbourhood, which is home to The Stonewall Inn and synonymous with the gay rights movement, is located in lower Manhattan, close enough to still be abuzz with the exuberance of NYC, but just far away enough to provide some breathing space.

On a Saturday night, we enjoyed some drinks in the Hudson Hound, an Irish-owned pub on 575 Hudson Street. If you can’t get a spot there, there were plenty of other bars on the street that seemed equally lively.

We finished our evening in The Duplex, an iconic spot in the West Village featuring a piano bar with regular open-mic events, a cabaret theatre, and another small room upstairs that stays open until 4am, 365 days a year.

Depending on the night, you might step into a drag show, comedy gig, or a nightclub vibe. It’s well worth a visit, but you’ll want to go easy on the drink. A beer will set you back $10-$11, while a glass of wine is $12-$14. We’re sure the cocktails were great, but at $17 each, we can’t say we tried them.

Top tip: If you’re a fan of Friends, you can find the exterior of the friends building located in nearby Greenwich Village, at 90 Bedford Street at the corner of Grove Street.

Getting there

In 2022, we have an impressive number of options when it comes to flying from Ireland to New York. I travelled with United Airlines, which flies direct from Dublin and Shannon to Newark with economy, “Premium Plus” (coming summer 2023) and “Polaris Business Class” options.

If business class is in your budget, United’s Polaris offering is impressive. Along with the complimentary booze, snacks, and main meals (we were offered two per flight) on board, there is luxuy bedding (pillows, blankets, duvets) from Saks Fifth Avenue, goodies from skincare brand Sunday Riley, individual power outlets, and USB chargers and access to in-flight WiFi.

In Newark, the airline has both a Polaris lounge and United Club (you have access to both if you fly international business class) with access to baristas, mixologists, buffets, fine-dining, showers, and private phone rooms.

• Nicole was a guest of NYC & Company, United Airlines, and the Renaissance New York Flushing Hotel at Tangram.
• United Airline’s Basic Economy fares to Newark start from €465 including tax, with business fares to Newark starting from €1,695 including tax and two checked bags.
• For all there is to see and do across New York City’s five boroughs, visit NYCGO.com.