Hostel la vista: Why it’s time to update our notions of the budget break

From circus tents, to partying in Lisdoonvarna, to solace for solo travellers, you never know what you might get from a stay in a hostel writes Shauna Mc Hugh
Hostel la vista: Why it’s time to update our notions of the budget break

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Over two and a half years on from the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, the many changes it’s caused to life as we knew it are still only now becoming apparent.

Some of us are realising we no longer know how to function in an office environment, mourning the days when we could work from home and roll out of bed blissfully late with no busy commute ahead. Others are emerging back into society as masters of a new instrument, or of baking, sewing or painting thanks to all the extra practice during lockdowns.

One effect that seems to have been felt across the board, however, is a newfound appreciation for adventure and human connection. After endless days, weeks and months cooped up inside our homes, facing the same four walls and the same people, most of us are still scratching the excruciating itch that built up over that time – an itch to get back out seeing new parts of the world and meeting new, exciting characters along the way.

One of the ways we Irish seem to be scratching that itch for a new adventure is through hostels. According to latest figures from Fáilte Ireland, there are currently 65 hostels registered across the Republic of Ireland, providing a whopping 5,968 beds.

While hostels were once seen an exclusive club for trendy young students and backpackers, these beds are now being filled by people of all ages and walks of life – from families, to couples, to large groups like stags or hen dos.

Someone who can attest to this better than anyone is 30 year old Kara Haarberger, who’s stayed in more hostels than there are counties in Ireland!

“I started staying in hostels when I was 19 and I’ve probably stayed in at least 40 since then,” explains Kara, an Australian native who’s settled in Cork in recent years after extensive travels throughout Europe. “What I love about them is that you never know who you could meet in one – they really are places where anyone can fit in. I’ve always found hostels to have a really interesting mix of people, and a huge range in ages. They’re definitely a good place to stay if you're a social butterfly, because you’ll never be stuck for company. They’re also places that can bring you out of your shell if you’re more shy, though – loads of hostels have activities on in the evenings, like a BBQ night or something, which are great ways to mingle and get to know people you’d never usually cross paths with otherwise.” 

The hostels themselves, she says, can be just as varied as the guests within them; “I’ve stayed in all sorts of hostels over the years – in Ireland, in Australia and loads across Europe. I even once stayed in this really mad place in Munich, that was technically a hostel but actually a circus tent filled with bunk beds. It slept 160 people!

One of Kara's most memorable hostel stays was in this circus tent in Munich.
One of Kara's most memorable hostel stays was in this circus tent in Munich.

“That’s the great thing about hostels, is that you can honestly find one that would suit anybody. My friend and her mum recently stayed in one with a private dorm for just the two of them. That worked for them because they wanted something a bit more quiet and private. Others have different setups - something that I actually love about Irish hostels is that many of them have the usual bunk beds, but they've got a curtain over the side of bed so it's quite private, with separate plug sockets for each bed too. Those ones are quite bougie.

“There’s loads of options though – some hostels sleep four people per dorm, others eight to twelve. You also usually have a choice between single sex dorms or a mixed one. When I first started travelling in my teens, that was definitely a plus, having that safety blanket of my own friends sleeping in the room with me and a handful of other girls who we could get to know.” 

This range of options, and particularly the choice of opting for a segregated dorm, is what also drew Galway woman Susie Murray towards hostels; “One of my favourite hostel stays ever was actually a girl’s trip to Lisdoonvarna,” the 38 year old shares. “A group of eight of us all stayed in this one hostel room for two nights and it was absolutely ridiculous craic. It was a bit chaotic at times, with all of us trying to get at the bathroom mirror and do our makeup, and clothes and shoes everywhere! The madness was all part of the fun though, we still have great memories from that trip. All of us sharing the one dorm was like a massive party! So I’d definitely recommend the women’s only dorms if you’re planning a trip with a load of friends like that, it’s one of the most fun ways to do it.

Lisdoonvarna, famous for its annual Matchmaking Festival, is also home to some top tier hostels.
Lisdoonvarna, famous for its annual Matchmaking Festival, is also home to some top tier hostels.

“I probably opt for those dorms the most as a solo traveller too, though. There’s a huge sense of camaraderie in hostels, where all the solo travellers get to know each other and look out for one another. I’ve made some great friends from those kinds of experiences, there was one girl I met at a hostel in Iverness while I was in Scotland to see Loch Ness. 

"I met her the night I arrived and we had a nice chat, then the next morning we got up and she randomly invited me to go off on a tour with her. It was the kindest, most spontaneous thing. We rented bikes, and so I went off for the entire day with this complete stranger, exploring the place, and had the loveliest time. Hostels are definitely a great place to go if you're on your own, you meet amazing people who are all the same as you, travelling solo and looking for new experiences.” 

Kara also has her own fond memories of striking up unlikely friendships during her hostel adventures; “Once I was about three months into my trip across Europe, my diet was on a really sharp decline! I hadn’t had a homecooked meal in a long, long time. I was staying with this group of about eight people who all felt the same, so we pooled together and went all out, made a fancy steak dinner complete with wine… it was absolutely fabulous. It was a standout experience for all of us, and we’d only spent less than €10 each.” 

While friendly dorm roommates can turn a normal hostel stay into an unforgettable experience, the kindness of hostel staff is also a hugely important factor for both women. Naturally, in the land of céad míle fáilte, the welcome you get in Irish hostels is one that can’t be beat.

“I’ve stayed in hostels in Belfast, Clare, Limerick and loads more,” shares Susie. “There’s been a great atmosphere in all of them. From the moment you arrive, the people at the front desk really help you to settle in. They show you around the place and answer any questions, there’s usually really fun communal areas they’ll point you towards where you can play board games or just have a chat with new people. It’s a very welcoming environment, really puts you at ease.” 

Kara, who’s stayed in some hostels where the communal areas even had a full bar, agrees fully; “I’ve usually found the staff in hostels to be really friendly. They've got loads of information about the area you’re staying in, and give you great ideas for local activities or fun things to do and see. I actually picked up some great skills while I was staying at a hostel in Italy. I mentioned to the staff there that I wanted to do a cooking course and they found a nearby restaurant that took our group in and taught us to make gnocchi and tiramisu, which was incredible!” 

Galway woman Susie Murray loves the sense of adventure that comes with a hostel stay.
Galway woman Susie Murray loves the sense of adventure that comes with a hostel stay.

While the staff may generally be fantastic, some personal responsibility also needs to be taken to ensure you get the most out of your hostel experience. Both Susie and Kara do extensive research before booking anything, with review sites like HostelWorld or TripAdvisor often providing a key sounding board.

“I’ve heard a few horror stories about things getting stolen, but as long as you've got a really good padlock you should be sorted,” Kara advises. “I’d always bring one anyway, even to hostels with a great reputation. Most of them have their own secure lockers now, but it’s always better to be safe!” 

Susie, meanwhile, says most of the horror stories she’s heard have to do with the cleanliness of some hostels – nobody wants to wash themselves in shower stalls that look like a set piece from Orange Is the New Black, or worse still to snuggle up with bedbugs!

“Obviously not all hostels are the same, some won’t be great, but the reviews have always helped me to avoid any terrible ones,” she shares. “There are some things you can’t avoid – people might be coming and going all night or there could be some loud snorers. As long as you have earplugs and a clean bed, though, that’s all you could want for the low hostel prices!” 

While the budget rates are one of the main things that first attracted both women to hostels initially, they’ve each continued staying in them for benefits that go far beyond their wallets.

“When I want to really treat myself or need some ‘me time’ and privacy, peace and quiet, I’ll go for a hotel stay for sure,” says Kara. “You don’t get those things from a hostel, but you get plenty of other perks. It really depends on what you want to get out of your trip. The people, the atmosphere, the central location, those are even more important to me than just the money-saving element.” 

Susie agrees that while she loves a hotel break herself, her preferences there are worlds apart from what she looks for in a hostel; “The reality is you’re not going to get a room with a view or a five-star breakfast in a hostel. You won’t have a TV in your dorm or anything. I love going to hotels for that luxury aspect, I especially love a good bubble bath or a swimming pool.

“What I get from hostels is totally different – it’s a basic breakfast of cereals or toast, but you’ve a kitchen full of new friends tucking into it with you. It’s about meeting new people and trying new things with them. I personally don’t think you can beat that sense of adventure!”

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