As summer arrives, the Munster Blackwater once again enhances its claim as the most scenic river valley in Ireland, mainly due to the profusion of majestic trees that adorn much of the countryside through which it runs.
The valley is now looking its best after a long, wet winter, as the trees come into full leaf. One of nature’s many wonders. The ascendancy of another, long-passed era, took pride in their wooded demesnes which survive and make this a truly enchanting waterway.
But the Blackwater has humble beginnings, springing forth in the wet, heathery uplands along the Cork/Kerry border, near Ballydesmond — Sliabh Luachra (mountain of rushes) territory, better known for its traditional music and poetry than for verdant woodlands and grand estates.
As the ever-widening river reaches Mallow, and flows on gently by Fermoy, Lismore and Cappoquin, the landscape changes. Here, exotic woods planted by landlords all those years ago, make the valley a ‘hotspot’ for champion trees, according to arboreal expert Aubrey Fennell.
He picks out Ballynatray House, overlooking the last bend before the river spills into Youghal Bay. Restored gardens and medieval ruins come into view as does a low, squat ash tree standing alone.
In his well-researched book,
, Fennell describes this old tree’s gnarly trunk as a lattice of holes and bumps defiant against the storms that try to topple it: “It has so many nooks and crannies that the contents of Noah’s Ark could be rehoused in it."Fennell, who has recorded more than 10,000 champion trees countrywide, says Ireland is still a land of giant ash trees, with the 400-year-old Ballynatray specimen being the ‘biggest daddy of them of all’.
A personal favourite is moss-carpeted Reenadinna Yew Wood, in the temperate rainforest of Killarney National Park. Among the pure, yew woodlands found only in a few places in Europe, Reenadinna stands out because of its abundant lichens and mosses due to high rainfall and humidity.
Located a short distance from Muckross House and off the roadway to Dinis Cottage, this delight is well worth a visit. Notably, it has a dense canopy which some people find almost eerie.
Last words on Reenadinna from Fennell: “Tread softly as this mystical wood is unique, not just in Ireland but in the world."
Finally, as well as being useful for wildlife, the environment and climate change, trees are good for people’s health. A Japanese practice called ‘forest bathing’ is reputed to reduce heart rate and blood pressure and claims it is good for body and mind to be amid trees.
Surely another reason to go down to the woods today!