Walk the 22-mile Tóchar Phádraig in the footsteps of royal subjects, saints, and medieval pilgrims
Tóchar O'dwyer Mayo’s John Pilgrim Phádraig Path Pictures: G
Mayo’s Tóchar Phádraig Pilgrim Path was originally a paved road from Rathcroghan, the seat of the Kings of Connaught, to the mystical summit of Cruachán Aigle, County Mayo.
Later, St Patrick is reputed to have Christianised the route as he followed it on his journey to the mountain, which then became Croagh Patrick.
Following Patrick’s journey, pilgrims, drawn by the promise of eternal life, began following that same road to Ireland’s holy mountain and over time the route became known as Tóchar Phádraig or St Patrick’s Causeway.
After the English Reformation, the Tóchar fell into disuse when penal laws were enacted against Catholics. Untrodden and almost forgotten for four centuries, it was the arrival of Fr Frank Fahey at Ballintubber Abbey that was the catalyst behind its re-awakening.
Born near Ballyhaunis in 1936, Fr Frank was educated at St Jarlath’s College, where he developed a lifelong passion for Mayo football and was a member of the county minor football team that won the All-Ireland Championship in 1953. Entering Maynooth as a late vocation in 1968, his studies coincided with an opening to new ideas within the Catholic Church.
After his ordination, he was briefly appointed to Inishboffin Island before being transferred to a place that was literally a world away; for two and a half years he was posted to the United States. On, what many would describe as a dream appointment, he was based between New York and Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, where he worked as a programme organiser for famous rosary priest, Fr Patrick Peyton. Also, a native of County Mayo, Peyton became the world’s first superstar priest and was renowned across the US for his television catchphrase 'The family that prays together stays together'.
Returning to Ireland in 1976, Fr Frank was appointed curate to the Marian shrine at Knock, County Mayo. He spent a decade ministering there with the legendary Monsignor James Horan. Later, he described it as a very exciting time with the centenary celebrations for the Shrine, the building of the huge Basilica of Our Lady and the coming of Pope John Paul II in 1979.
He recalls being at the famous breakfast in 1980 that followed the anniversary mass celebrating the Pope’s visit. Attended by government ministers Pádraig Flynn and Albert Reynolds it was the occasion where the Irish Taoiseach, Charles Haughey, promised the wily Monsignor Horan what he thought was a grass airfield for Knock. Soon after, the Monsignor publicly unveiled plans for an international airport capable of handling trans-Atlantic jets, which he claimed had full support from the Government.
Next in his series of high-profile postings, Fr Frank was transferred to Ballintubber. The Abbey was already well known having been restored and roofed in time for the 750th anniversary of its foundation, in 1966.
The Tóchar Phádraig had, however, returned to obscurity, with its last use recorded in 1588. With his legendary enthusiasm and energy, Fr Frank immediately set about restoring the section of the path from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick. There were 64 landowners along the 22-mile trail and all gave consent to reopening the path.
“It was a time of extremely high unemployment,” explained Fr Fahey, “and the farmers were delighted to help".
"We had 15 of the very best people on a community employment scheme who had been let go from their jobs. They did great work on the route and we opened in 1988, exactly 400 years after the path had been abandoned. We were then very glad that the first pilgrims to walk the newly reawakened Tóchar were a group of Irish army officers, led by Colonel Michael Walsh.”
On Tóchar Phádraig pilgrim route, (stretching from Rathcrochan to Croagh Patrick),between a stone wall step stile and slab stile with Templar cross lies the richly decorated Bohea Stone dating back c4,000 years ..need revisit 24August as setting sun rolls down the reek to the sea pic.twitter.com/ddkrQmvz6J
— DormanArchitects (@DormanArchs) June 23, 2024
As one of Europe’s oldest penitential routes that long predates the much more youthful Spanish Camino, the Tóchar has been in use since the very foundation of Christian pilgrimage. Fr Frank has recently seen a big increase in the numbers walking the route: “In the beginning, we just had local people, but now, with the great expansion of pilgrim walking, the Tóchar has become much more popular. Most days in summer, we have groups or individuals setting out from the Abbey to walk to Croagh Patrick.”
In 2016 the Tóchar Phádraig joined with Cnoc na dTobar, Cosán na Naomh, St Finbarr's Pilgrim Path and St Kevin's Way, to create the Irish Pilgrim Journey.
- To fulfil the Journey requirements, participants must complete 120 kilometres on these spiritual trails. This enables walkers to gain the required stamps for the Irish Pilgrim Passport and then obtain a Teastas Oilithreachta (completion certificate) from Ballintubber. There is no limit on the time taken to complete the full journey.
- Details of locations where the passport may be purchased and stamped are to be found at pilgrimpath.ie
- Those wishing to walk the Tóchar must first pay a €15 registration fee to Ballintubber Abbey and walk with at least one other person.
- Further information at ballintubberabbey.ie