These four walking trails will change the way you see Ireland
Have Barra Assembled To At Cummins Gougane St To Picture: Here Pilgrims Larry For Finbarr’s Walk Hermitage Generations
This is a spectacular walk starting in the village of Drimoleague in West Cork and is part one of the saint’s pilgrimage undertaken to the famous Gougane Barra in the sixth century. The story goes that the unhappy saint reprimanded the inhabitants for turning away from god before marching over the mountains by way of an ascetic lesson. From the vantage point of the Top of the Rock, where a purpose-built hiking centre has been established, there is a mouthwatering view of the first half of this walk. The valley of the River Ilen runs east to west above which the almost 500m peak of Mullaghmesha Mountain can be seen. This is where the Ilen River, which flows on to Skibbereen and Baltimore, rises. The mountain is the watershed for another river system, that of the Mealagh, whose river valley of the same name is encountered after a few hours of walking.
Down in the valley, the Castledonovan tower house speaks of another age when rival clans once did battle. Cromwell’s troops ravaged the area in the 1640s in reprisal for the perceived O’Donovan disloyalty. Nearby, is an alpaca farm, open to visitors, surreal in this landscape, where a furry head peeping over a hedge can take an unsuspecting walker by surprise. The first part of the walk, signposted all the way, leads down into the leafy depths of the Ilen’s valley.
The river is magnificent at this stage: Gurgling, whirling, and waterfalling its way ever westwards. The route touches some quiet roads here and there before rising to near the summit of a ridge overlooking Bantry Bay. An extraordinary view of the bay awaits you with Sheep’s Head stretching out to the Atlantic and the Beara Peninsula, mistily enticing.
These uplands are desolate, wild places. The path descends over an extensive bog before a stile is crossed to reach a road. A path then descends through a wood, all very well signposted, before reaching the public road which leads on to Kealkill and Carriganass castle.
This route is one of five pilgrim routes for which walkers can have their card (passport) marked for pilgrimpath.ie and guaranteed entry to heaven. Well, you’ve already arrived there if you’ve done this walk.
18km
5 to 6 hours
Difficult
Discovery Series 85
R586 from Bandon to Drimoleague
This article is full of superlatives, unashamedly! But this walk on Achill Island is simply mind-bendingly awesome. It has arguably the greatest views in the entire country.
Start from the world famous Keem Beach on the west of the island. Descending to this beach along the road makes you think you are visiting some lost kingdom. Park at the beach and immediately begin a steep, fairly hard climb to the old signal station. This is stunning enough, with astonishing views out to sea and from the cliffs at your feet. From here, the track heads due east and a fairly gentle climb to overlook Achill Head which disappears below your gaze like a stretched foot.
Now descend in an easterly direction, again steeply, on sheep tracks to the bottom of the valley where sheepfarmers lived in the 19th century and before. Somehow. This is a wild, wild place and the only people you may encounter here are fellow walkers. Now begins an extremely steep climb to the 688m summit of Croaghaun which can be done in stages with good rests in between. After a long ascent you will gain the summit, breathless but awed at the incomparable views.
Descend northeastwards until Bunafreva Lough West before an about turn and a march over an extensive bog and a steep descent back to Keem Beach.
Again, this is an bridged description, so consult guidebook and map before attempting. Take extreme care near the cliffs and mind the wind!
13km
5-6 hours
Difficult
Discovery Series 30
Ireland’s Best walks: Helen Fairbairn
Drive to Keem Beach at the far side of Achill Island, Co Mayo.
This is one of the classic Irish mountains, readily identifiable by its white quartzite slopes which from afar might be taken for snow. The mountain is quite the showoff in fact, with a glorious pink hue pouring over the summit as the sun sets.
Errigal is the highest summit in the Derryveagh Mountains range and while its 751m leaves it well short of our highest peaks, it is nonetheless a walk well worth doing, not least because it is the highest in Co Donegal.
And while it is a comparatively short walk, it is steep once you cross the initial bog. As Errigal is often swathed in cloud and lashed by strong winds, testament to its rugged nature, it is best to pick an optimum day for your hike. Start at the trailhead carpark a few kilometres to the northeast of Dunlewey village on the R251. Cross, the (usually) saturated ground and watch out for a stream at which you should stay on the right-hand side. As the soft ground gives way to rocky terrain an obvious path now presents itself which winds ever upwards between banks of scree.
At the summit, like Galtee Mór there are twin peaks, you will most likely gasp at the astonishing views that lie before you. Out beyond the village of Gweedore can be seen the islands of Gola and Owey. Away off to the north the island of Tory can be seen like a ship on the horizon. Below to the south lies the Poisoned Glen and beyond that, Glenveagh National Park. If confirmation of your insignificance on planet Earth is what you are looking for, then here you will find it.
To return, it is possible to descend via a series of plateaus towards Dunlewey Lough and emerging again on the R251 in the village. However, this necessitates a fair degree of scrambling from the top, so it is best to retrace your steps down through the scree and back across the boggy ground. As this description is only a summary it is advisable to buy a guidebook for more in-depth coverage.
5km
2.5 hours
Moderate
Discovery Series 1
Donegal, Sligo and Leitrim: Mountain and Coastal Hillwalks, Adrian Hendroff
R251 from Dunlewey 4.
This is a short but spectacular walk of 3.5km along the banks of the River Shannon on the Co Clare border with Co Limerick. It is suitable for families or for those lacking the energy for a more demanding route. It is suitable for all seasons as it is low-lying and protected from the extremes of uplands walking.
Start in the village of O’Briensbridge in Co Clare. This is Bruach Na Sionna in Irish or Banks of the Shannon and it has one of the most beautiful bridges in the country. The 14-arched bridge links the village to the Co Limerick side of the river to the village of Montpelier. O’Briensbridge is named after the first earl of Thomond, Turlough O’Brien who, surprise surprise, built the first bridge across the river here in the 15th century.
Start the walk right at the bridge where there is a small carpark and the signs will direct you eastwards and upriver. Though this is only a thin riparian strip of native trees it feels like you are immersed in extensive woodland. Keep an eye out for the majestic heron and if you are very lucky you might spot the multicoloured kingfisher.
After a short period, the island of Inishlosky is visible to your right. This was a significant island in its day and is one of the largest islands on the Shannon, not counting the lakes. The island has the ruins of a Romanesque church constructed in the 12th century by a French order known as the White Knights. They hailed from Montpelier in France, hence the name of the Co Limerick village.
After 2km you arrive at Parteen Weir which was constructed in 1929 as part of the Shannon Hydroelectric Scheme. At nearly 100 years old, it is a very impressive part of our industrial heritage. A little further north lies the mighty Lough Derg and the famous Holy Island (which is a fabulous day trip itself).
The return leg on the northside of the headrace canal is less spectacular but still entirely pleasant. The far banks reveal the rich farmland of the east of the county. As the walk concludes where the track joins a road on your left, and if you happen to arrive just before dusk, you will be greeted by the spectacular sight of the sun sinking beneath the bridge.
And if you’re feeling energised after that, there is another loop heading south for 12km, the Old Barge Loop which is also waymarked.
3.5km
One hour at leisurely pace
Easy
Discovery Series 58
R463 from Limerick to O’Briensbridge or take sliproads from the nearby M7 motorway, such as to Birdhill