Say cheers: Leslie Williams shares the ultimate Christmas drinks guide

The only proper mistake I can think of was the time I went to a wine shop on Christmas Eve and bought a bottle of expensive Burgundy (Gevrey-Chambertin) from a producer I didn’t know. Sadly, it was mediocre, but wasn’t the only wine in the house, so all was not lost.

The best advice I can give is not to panic but to pick a couple of options if you are having guests, as tastes vary. Christmas Day is also not the best time to open that prized bottle as it will probably get lost in the chaos. If you must open the prized bottle, make sure you have a back-up in case it is corked or past its best.

Fabulous Fizz

You know you need fizz in the house! It is the best breakfast wine, it matches present giving and is the perfect aperitif. Your local independent off-licence should have some grower Champagne on the shelves and of the Grande Marque Champagnes I have a particular fondness for Pol Roger and Louis Roederer. If you want a more familiar name, opt for Môet Vintage or Rosé, both of which are tastier than the standard version.

My recommendation: Albet i Noya Petit Albert Classic Brut, Penédès, Spain, €23.99

Organic fizz from Penedès. Pear and citrus aromas mixed with brioche and creamy lemon — textured and crisp on the palate with boiled sweet hints and lemony freshness. Fine quality for the price.

Perfect Party Wines

I’ll keep this one simple. Head to Dunnes Stores and pick up a selection from the Laurent Miquel range, as many of their wines are on offer for between €7.80 and €10 until Christmas. Laurent and his Irish wife Neasa make consistently great wines at very low prices — I particularly recommend the Chardonnay/Viognier, the Solas Pinot Noir, and the Cazal Viel St. Chinian.

Non-Alcoholic Drinks

My favourite non-alcoholic drink is homemade lemonade. I recommend trying Darina Allen’s Granny’s version, or my recipe, which is overleaf.

Kefir and kombucha are great alternatives to alcohol too, and any good health food store will have a selection.

For non-alcoholic wine, I recommend the Hollow Leg range or ‘Leitz Ein Zwei Zero’ (both available from independents). Hollow Leg Cabernet is given extended lees contact which provides the wine with more body than in most de-alcoholised wines. The Hollow Leg Albariño (in sparkling and still format) is also recommended.

My recommendation: King of Kefir Lemongrass & Ginger, 0% ABV, 33cl. €3.99

Just seven calories per bottle and packed with flavour. This is tangy, zingy, and gorgeous with a light fizz and a pleasing touch of heat from the ginger. I also love their Cucumber, Mint & Thyme one— all five flavours are worth trying. A proper adult drink.

What to drink with Christmas dinner

To serve with starters

Christmas starters usually involve shellfish or smoked salmon, but if by any chance you have soup I suggest a dry Oloroso Sherry (from good independents such as Bradleys or O’Driscolls).

My recommendation: Terras Gauda O Rosal Albariño, Rias Baixas 2016, Spain, €25

I haven’t featured this fine Albariño in a few years, but recently tasted a bottle I had aged for five years and it was delicious — the ageing added texture and depth. Even young, however, this is packed with layers of peachy fruits cut through with zing and character. Perfect for seafood.

To serve with mains

Turkey is a forgiving meat, and can match with red or white, but you need something rich to cope with the trimmings, so I’m suggesting reds this year. Best to go with something with some sweet fruits like I have suggested below.

In the US it is traditional to serve Californian Zinfandel at Thanksgiving, and so that is another option (Seghesio, Ridge, Ravenswood). If you must have white, I suggest a good Mâcon Burgundy, either a Village wine or Pouilly Fuissé (O’Briens).

My recommendation: Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje 13%, Garnacha, Graciano, €25

Organic minimal intervention wine from 35-year-old Garnacha vines grown in the Desert of Bardenas Reales in Navarra — hot days, cool nights, poor soil. Fermented on wild yeasts, ripe berry, and plum fruits, supple soft and lively on the palate, textured and fresh. A&G’s Graciano is also recommended (€19 in Matsons and Ardkeen).

My recommendation: Château Mont-Redon 2020, Rhône, France, €57

Châteauneuf-du-Pape and wines from the Southern Rhône all work well with turkey and goose. This is not quite the bargain it used to be, but is still worthy of its price. The 2020 pours dark and dense with rich plum and baked cherry aromas, ripe and luscious on the palate, supple and fleshy with some crunch and texture.

To serve with dessert

The rich dried fruit flavours we associate with Christmas can also be found in port and sherry — there is a good reason that the bulk of port and sherry sales are at Christmas. Both are undervalued and so represent great value. It is not that long ago that vintage port cost the same as a top Bordeaux like Château Margaux, now it costs a tenth of the price.

My recommendation: Armilar Late Bottled Vintage Port 2018, €13.99

You will find port on offer in all the supermarkets. You can’t go wrong with the big names such as Taylors, Warre, Dow, Kopke, or Offley, to name just a few. Ten- or 20-year-old Tawny from any of these houses is recommended, or opt for a late bottled vintage, which is richer and finer than basic ruby port. This version from Lidl is brilliant value. With blackberry and cherry aromas, and ripe juicy berry flavours, it is lighter in style but great value.

My recommendation: Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Spain, 50cl, €22-23

This is not overly sweet, so works with desserts and cheese as well as with Christmas cake etc. Made from 80% dry oloroso and 20% sweet Pedro Ximénez (PX) — aromas of Moscatel raisins and nuts, elegant and complex with sweetness balanced by dried berries and acidity. For the full ‘Christmas in a glass’ experience, go for the pure Lustau Pedro PX, best served cool.