Great Irish foods: Six artisan food brands to try this Christmas
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Specialising in ‘Cork Fayre with French Flair’ since 1992, Isabelle Sheridan has earned a special place in Irish hearts for her wonderful charcuterie — notably her pâtés and terrines — and for the Irish and French artisan foods that she sells alongside them at her shops (English Market; Douglas) and speciality shops around the country. Whether for yourself or a gift, the luxurious Duck Liver Pâté with Port is an obvious choice for the festive season, but any product from her range is sure to enhance your Christmas menus.
Fingal Ferguson’s equally famous and desirable Gubbeen meats.
While there’s now a gorgeous Irish cheese for everything from a toastie to an end of meal treat the choice of blue cheese is still quite limited. Yet it‘s a must on any balanced cheeseboard and Cashel Blue — the original Irish blue made by Louis and Jane Grubb on their Tipperary farm from the early 1980s — remains the most famous to this day. Still made by hand it’s sure to enhance any occasion, as are its younger siblings, Crozier Blue, Ireland’s only blue sheep’s milk cheese.
Young Buck, made by Mike ~Thomson in Newtownards, Co Down, and available from speciality stores including Belfast’s Mikes Fancy Cheese
There now seems no end to the cheeses that our talented producers can come up with. But, surprisingly, crackers and other accompaniments were slow to follow the surge of cheese production. When Wexford baker Tim Nickerson started their healthy little heart-shaped Isle of Crackers flaxseed range in 2014, for example, its flavoursome crispness and hand-made appeal soon earned a following. Cranberry is perfect for Christmas, but they’re all delicious and easy to find on Supervalu Food Academy shelves and from speciality food stores.
Originals like Ditty’s Oatcakes from Castledawson and Sheridans crackers may pair with other local delicacies including honey, alongside their own chutneys and condiments.
Dating from 1985, Tom Durcan Meats is not one of Ireland’s longest-established butchers. It is also one of the most highly-regarded — and now synonymous with that great Christmas speciality, the Cork traditional spiced beef, which has won all kinds of acclaim and has become an all-year favourite. The ritual begins with the spice mix in which he marinades the selected joints for a month, or maybe two. Everyone has their own favourite way of cooking and serving it — but Tom likes his best served cold and sliced, “with caramelised Spanish onions, on crusty buttered white bread”. The spiced beef is also available nationwide, pre-cooked and sliced.
Other Cork butchers with secret recipes for Spiced Beef include Ó Crualaoí Butchers ocrualaoi.com (Ballincollig and branches), and the famed McCarthy’s of Kanturk.
A colourful speciality product of their Goatsbridge Trout Farm at Thomastown, Co Kilkenny, and just the thing to add a splash of Christmassy zing to the simplest of fare, Mags and Ger Kirwan describe their fresh water trout caviar as ‘a true delicacy’ that’s very mild and never tastes ‘fishy.’ The eggs are much smaller than salmon eggs and the colour often is brighter. Ready to eat and with no heating required, it can be served simply — on blinis or unsalted crackers, for example, with crème fraiche or crumbled hard boiled eggs, or to top a sushi roll or just chilled and served on its own.
’Real’ Osietra Caviar is available from speciality outlets including eatmorefish.ie
A decade ago David and Martina Burns launched their Co Longford gem Richmount Elderflower Cordial — and, picking up an Irish Food Writers’ Guild Drink Award in 2015, its arrival marked a sea change for non-alcoholic Irish drinks.
A high-quality product to be enjoyed in the same way as wine and a welcome import substitute, it was (and is) the product of their own extensive elder orchards. More native flower and berry cordials followed — and now we have Richmount Cordial’s first foray into alcoholic beverages, their limited edition Richmount Elderflower Liqueur. Delicate, with a light, refreshing taste, it’s ideal for cocktails and spritzers.
… Sloe Bertha ‘a warming tipple made by infusing wild and cultivated sloes with Bertha’s Revenge Gin’.