Using the Central Statistics Office CPI Inflation Calculator (say that three times fast), I can see that €100 in October 2019 is equivalent to €119.53 in October 2024. That figure displays what I’d have to spend to get the same value of consumer goods in a five-year time span, but it covers all consumer goods. We all know that the price of food has been particularly hit by inflation, with some items increasing by closer to 20% in that time frame.
For those looking for a bottle of white and red wine for the Christmas table, wine writer Leslie Williams recommends the Nugan Estate Dreamer’s Chardonnay, €8, from SuperValu. “This can be served with prawn or salmon starters as well as the turkey for those who want white wine,” he says.
For a red, try Château Cazal Viel ‘Vielle Vignes’ Saint-Chinian,
Laurent Miquel, Languedoc €9.60 in Dunnes Stores. “This should cost €20,” Leslie says. “This has generous soft berry fruits, a savoury herb-tinged elegance with clove and pepper accents, and a delightful silky sensuousness that will match turkey, goose and even ham”.
Providing you have invested in a stretchy waistband, it’s likely you will reach the picky stage of grazing after the main meal with all the trimmings later in the evening. SuperValu have a showstopper Baking Irish Cooleeney Cheese in an earthenware dish for €4.99 which will keep dairy fans happy, paired with some crackers or homemade bread. You could also impress your host with a full Irish Cheese Hamper from Lidl, costing €14.99, containing several Irish cheeses, chutney, and crackers, it’s an absolute bargain but only available from mid-December. (€14.99).
If you enjoy your cheese with wine, Leslie recommends pairing with the Chateau Roumieu Sauternes (375ml), €10 from SuperValu (he tells me this will go nicely with the Christmas Pudding too).
And finally, a non-alcoholic option for those tired of the fizzy drinks – Leslie says go for Hollow Leg Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Albariño, €10 from Dunnes Stores. “This is peachy and fresh and as close to the real thing as I’ve found,” he says.
The cost of Christmas cuts of meats has certainly increased since pre-covid days, according to the recent winner of Meat Producer of the Year by Ireland Food Guides, Rick Higgins. Rick heads up a fourth-generation family butcher based in North Dublin. That increase he says is more than 40% which is a huge rise in the cost of our turkey and ham which can be put down to many reasons.
“There are costs associated with growing turkeys that people don’t realise – feed, electricity, diesel for transport, wages, packaging – and from my end I have the same costs on top of that. Everybody has to make a living and these increases are reflected across the board, not just in your local butcher’s shop.”
Higgins Butchers only stocks free range meat which can be expensive and that is why I was surprised to learn that many of their customers are on a budget. Rick says that these are people who are conscious of their food quality and either capable of cooking on a budget, or open to being educated by his team.
His main advice for families on a budget this year is to listen to their butcher on the quantities they need. He says that customers often order double quantities and forget that you don’t need a full portion of turkey and ham for the main meal. If the turkey isn’t the star of your Christmas dinner table, why not consider a turkey leg which costs a fraction of the price instead. Rather than a full ham, a shank of ham on the bone or a hock can feed up to 3 people for less than €10. Considering this is free range pork that’s a bargain.
“It’s not about the fillet steak, full dressed turkey or enormous ham, there’s so many other parts that, if cooked correctly, have incredible flavour and value to a cut.”
What exactly is Rick cooking for Christmas this year? He says it’ll be the traditional meal on Christmas Day to keep the family happy, but that he has it down to a fine art to minimise leftovers. The jewel in the Christmas crown for him is St Stephen’s Day.
“I always do roast beef and roast pork on St Stephen’s Day. My favourite part is getting up on St Stephen’s Day and lighting the BBQ to reverse sear the beef and do the pork on the rotisserie. The festivities aren’t the same without it.”
Standing tall in his uniform, Rick is at pains to remind me that a butcher is for life, not just for Christmas. I’m wary of comparing his business to a pet but he has a point. Customers who invest in a relationship with their local butcher will benefit from education, advice, and building their local community. It’s rare to get that personal touch from a large supermarket.