Wine with Leslie: The best of Burgundy from Ireland's wine dealers
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There is an old saying that a passion for wine begins with Bordeaux but always ends up with Burgundy.
The saying was fairly accurate for me as the first fine wines I coveted and collected in the 1990s were from Bordeaux, and these days, when I can afford it, I crave Burgundy.
There is something incomparable and rather profound about the way Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay) based wines can taste when sourced from a good producer on a good site in the Côte d’Or or even the Côte Chalonnaise.
Of course the Yarra, Central Otago, Carneros and the Willamette Valley all make great Pinot too, it just isn’t Burgundy.
Wine used to be a niche hobby, a bottle of La Tâche cost under €100 in the 1990s, but the 1% see it as a trophy now so expect to pay €6,000.
Even a basic Bourgogne Rouge from a large négociant (who buy in grapes) will cost you €30. They are rarely worth it.
I have a solution however, and it is offered by Bill Kelly of Kelly’s Hotel in Rosslare who specialises in Burgundy and now sells direct.
Log on to Kellys.ie, click the word Shop in the menu, download the wine list and then add the bin-number codes to the purchasing form.
Among the outstanding producers he lists are famed growers like Benjamin Leroux, Denis Mortet, Maison Marchand-Tawse and Jean-Claude Ramonet (whose excellent Pernand Vergelesses is just €32).
There are no bad producers on the list; I also recommend Château de Monthélie, Francois Lumpp and Dom. de la Vougeraie.
Besides Burgundy the list also includes Italy (Mazzei), Champagne (Bonville), Germany, Bordeaux Cru Classés, and brilliant Rhônes - Bill is married to Isabelle Avril of Domaine Avril “Clos des Papes”.
Below are three great value red Burgundies to try.
The ‘house bourgogne’ at Kellys and from the Mâcon in Southern Burgundy.
Cherry and strawberry fruits on the nose, textured crunchy red and black fruits on the palate, youthful, juicy and fresh - likely to soften after a year’s bottle age but already very tasty and a bargain.
Lots of good Mâcon on the list also - e.g. Jean Thevenet.
Rully is south of Beaune in the Côte Chalonnaise (along with Bouzeron, Givry, Mercurey and Montagny), a great place to look for value these days.
Jacqueson is one of Rully’s brightest stars and this is gorgeous, earthy cranberry and raspberry fruits, supple and elegant, lingering and complex.
Low stocks, so if sold out opt for his Rully ‘Chaponnaires’ 2022.
Organic producer part of a new wave of modern Burgundy producers.
Floral red fruits with a background of earth and black cherry - silky and complex on the palate, layers of red and black fruits and a long finish which brings in some game notes mixed with black cherry.
Their Coteaux Bourguignon Gamay (€26) and Monthélie (€40) are also recommended.
Sliabh Liag make whiskies from peated malt, a historic tradition in the west of Ireland, especially Donegal and Connemara.
This release is finished in Ruby Port casks and has red fruit aromas with background smoke — fruity and sweet on the palate with salted caramel and lingering smoke hints.
Also try the Dark Silkie or Midnight Silkie.