Wines with Leslie: A look at some lesser-spotted white wines
Pic: Istock
The bitter winds of winter have yet to arrive, so far anyway. So, let’s save those winter warmer reds for later and explore some lesser-spotted white wines this week.
I’m mostly drinking textured richer white wines at the moment, the kind of creamy wines to match tostadas piled with crab meat, or textured dry whites to match sole, or turbot fried in butter and herbs (the pan deglazed with white wine of course).
White Burgundy would be perfect if I could afford it but good luck finding a village white Burgundy for less than €40 these days. Instead I’m looking to Spain.
I don’t need to remind you about Albariño and you probably know about Verdejo from Rueda, Spain’s best selling white wine.
Verdejo and Verdejo blends are an excellent bet for decent dry white under €15 and if you spend closer to €20 you will find some gorgeous wines, e.g. Jose Parente from WinesDirect, Tres Pilares from independents ande Alberto from O’Briens.
Treixadura from Ribeira is worth seeking out, as is Xarel:lo (charello) from Penedès — both creamy, floral and textured — I like Albet i Noya, Adeus and Finca Viñoa Treixadura is another (Matsons, Ardkeen).
Godello is always exciting, something about that waxy lemon flavour (in a good way) and the layers and textures (two mentioned below), and let’s not forget good old white Rioja.
The standard line on white Rioja is that the viura grape is boring and best drunk young.
But some brave producers like Marqués de Murrieta and Conde Valdemar treat it like a red and ferment in oak so it lasts a lifetime.
I once drank a gorgeous 50 year old one.
Murrieta’s Capellanía white is €90 sadly, but Conde Valdemar’s gorgeous version is €30 and won the NOffLA white wine of the year.
I haven’t featured an Albariño in ages but had to feature this one I found recently.
From the ever reliable Martin Codax co-op in the cooler Salnés sub-region which has notable sea influences.
Floral and peach aromas with a gorgeous supple texture and a brisk saline and lemon zest finish. The perfect seafood wine.
I adore Godello, you will too. This is from Rafael Palacios (brother of Alvaro of Priorat fame) floral and stone fruit aromas, fennel and bay notes, creamy and complex with brisk acidity and a salty tang.
I also recommend ‘Brezo’ Godello Bierzo in MacCurtain & Sheridans.
A rare viñedo singular wine, a Rioja Cru category for wines solely from classified vineyards with low yields and old vines (35+).
Fermented in new barriques this has creamy lemon and orange flower water aromas, lemon drizzle, dried fruit and layers of texture and a complex dry finish.
Delicious, drink now or wait 20+ years.
The third Teeling ‘wow’ edition, 50-50 malted and unmalted barley aged in virgin Swedish white oak which is noticeably denser.
Lemon, honey and caramel aromas, creamy ginger and treacle toffees flavours with warming spice notes on the finish, especially nutmeg. Complex and quite fascinating.
Also watch for the luxurious and delicious ruby cask finish 21 Yr. Old Rising no. 3 (€225)