Restaurant review: It is pleasing to see Richmond doing just fine

But I shouldn’t despair. The Bretzel bakery is going strong around the corner on Lennox Street, as is Lennox Grocer just up the way. Picado Mexican pantry is ticking along as is Wall and Keogh tea shop and so is Richmond restaurant; maybe the hotels will bring more business to them all.

Richmond opened in 2016 and filled a space once occupied by a midnight to 6am diner called The Gig’s Place. The room is comfortable and smart with wooden floors and tables, red banquettes and seats and retro art on white brick walls (a Kandinsky poster, a mid-century modern clock, and line drawings).

The menu is affordable and even more so if you are in time for the early bird €40 for two courses and €46 for three between 5.30 and 6.30pm. There are also higher end options on the blackboard above the pass such as a pork rack for two priced at €72.

We began with (gratis) Guinness and treacle scones with whipped butter which were malty, nutty, and sweet with a crumbly texture and particularly liked by my guest.

Elongated house-made cavatelli pasta shells which were pleasingly silky arrived in a foamed, lightly punchy parmesan cream sauce. Cooked pumpkin and king oyster mushrooms (puréed and in chunks) added autumnal savouriness, chestnut added texture and a touch of sweetness while poppy and sesame seed tuile added sweet-savoury crunch.

Mustard glazed hake was beautifully cooked, translucent and flaking pleasingly while capers and anchovies added a salty accent that threatened to overwhelm at first but actually lifted the dish nicely. Jerusalem artichoke added extra nutty textures and a sweetcorn sauce knitted in nicely.

The best of the two mains was a slow-cooked veal haunch, meaty and richly textured with a fine rich jus to add depth. Swede added earthy seasonal heft while a square of potato terrine rounded out the carbs. A roast pear purée added sweetness to cut through the meat flavours while a blob of pesto added some funky freshness.

Grilled sea trout with cauliflower was a little less successful in terms of construction but still a tasty dish and came with a solid marinière sauce and some bonus baby shrimp and morsels of octopus. The dish was enhanced hugely by some excellent chunks of crispy roast potatoes which made the side order of chips seem paltry and unnecessary.

THE two-page drinks list is nicely balanced with around 45 European wines, classic cocktails, and craft beers. Prices start at €36 for Languedoc red or white and there are at around 20 wines under €45 — a rarity these days. My guest was not drinking alcohol so chose a non-alcoholic Mimosa for €12.50. Made with fresh orange juice and a decent non-alcoholic fizz it was balanced and tasty and she ordered a second one. I opted for a glass of dry complex Riesling from Weingut Weil (€11.25) in the Rheinhessen, a good match for my pasta and fish course.

My lemon posset dessert was properly tart but sweet at the same time and cleansed my palate nicely. Some yellowman honeycomb and grilled plum slices added contrasting flavours on the side while a fig and yoghurt ice cream tasted more of milky sour lemon but worked well.

My guest’s date pudding was rich and satisfying with an almost chewy toffee sauce and some salted peanuts and gingerbread ice cream for contrast.

I hadn’t heard much about Richmond in recent years so it was pleasing to see they are doing just fine. A full restaurant at 5.30pm, charming efficient wait staff, and modern Irish food cooked properly with some flair and creativity. It is not just the locals who should be grateful, the city should too. More restaurants like this, please.

The Verdict

Food: 8/10

Wine: 8/10

Service: 9/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Value: 8/10

The bill

Early Bird dinner for two with three courses each, side dishes, cocktails, and a glass of wine, €138.15

• Richmond: 43 Richmond Street, Portobello, Dublin 2
• Tel: 01-4788783
• richmondrestaurant.ie
• Lunch, Sunday 11am-2.30pm
• Dinner, Wednesday to Sunday: 5.30pm-9pm