An Irish welcome: Restaurant pro Declan Maxwell's revealing staycation
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I always love to hear from guests about their Irish vacation when they are having their last meal with us in Spitalfields.
A last night out in Dublin before they fly back to their homeland, all seem to say the same things; that we have a beautiful country, great food and, most of all, that the friendliness and hospitality of everyone that they encountered is unique.
I like to think we have moved on from the “begorrah begorrah” Quiet Man tourist idea of Ireland and can hold our own against any other country when it comes to hotels, restaurants and service.
With this in mind, The Italian and I decided to enjoy a staycation this year for our summer holiday. There was no frantic airport dash searching for passports or queuing at security.
We could pack more than 10kg without any worry and throw the raincoats, wellies and umbrella into the boot of the car.
With a full petrol tank we set off to our first destination, Adare village (via the obligatory Obama Plaza pitstop for coffee and a selfie with the cardboard Obama cut-outs.)
Arriving in Adare can take a while — and that’s only the last 2km as traffic is often bumper to bumper there, but it’s worth the wait.
Checking into the Dunraven Arms is always a pleasure; it’s one of the oldest hotels in Ireland dating back to the 18th century. Adare is so picturesque, with its thatched cottages and pretty little cafes and gift shops.
We were lucky to visit Adare Manor for the afternoon; recently voted the No 1 Hotel Resort in Europe and recipient of three Michelin Keys this impressive five-star is a bastion of great service.
As future host to the Ryder Cup 2027 it will be a huge boost to the economy. After a stroll around the immaculately pruned grounds we relaxed with a peach spritzer in the luxurious lounge before strolling back down the avenue for our first dinner of the trip: at 1826.
Setting high standards with Wade Murphy’s sublime cooking — very generous portions of 12-hour braised short ribs — and professional, friendly service led by Elaine Murphy, the warm welcome here made us feel that we were being invited into their home for dinner.
Breakfast the next day in the Dunraven Arms is a special experience, with a whole cooked ham on a trolley in the middle of the dining room from which guests can carve themselves a few slices.
It sets us up well for our road trip to Dingle, one of the best towns in the country to spend a couple of nights.
There is always something going on here, from Other Voices to the Dingle Races. Staying a couple of nights at Castlewood House offers a masterclass in hospitality by Helen and Brian who have won numerous industry awards.
Sipping on a Buck’s Fizz as we check in, Helen asks whether she can organise any trips for us or book restaurants.
A refreshing and welcoming way to land at a new location, she recommended the newly opened Fish Factory restaurant for lunch in the town’s old fish plant.
The drives along the Kerry coast are breathtaking, and easily as impressive as any other corner of Europe. Dingle is the place for fish lovers with spots like Out of the Blue, a long-time practitioner of simple cooking and no messing with the main ingredient.
Half a dozen oysters followed by turbot with a lobster sauce and we were in heaven.
Next morning, the main event at Castlewood is their breakfast and I don’t think I’ve ever had one quite like it.
Pears marinated in champagne and turmeric is now one of my Death Row dishes and omelettes from the freshest eggs tasted like none I’ve ever had. Hotel breakfasts are so often an eat-and-go affair but here we spend an hour chatting with staff and guests.
A highlight of our Kerry visit was a trip out to the Blasket Islands where I could put the ghost of my Leaving Cert, Peig Sayers, to rest. It was going to be an exorcism for me; the Italian had no idea what I was on about.
Billy and the crew were full of chats on the boat out, which was a lovely trip with just 12 guests onboard.
The island is barren and I now understand why Peig was so miserable, but then we go up to her cottage and take in the stunning views over the bay. She really should have been happier.
We were so lucky with the weather: a proper summer’s day enhanced by a picnic from Dingle’s Little Cheese Shop. Made up of meats and Irish cheeses with a glass of wine from the island cafe, it made for a truly memorable moment overlooking the bay.
We walked on the beach to see the seals who live there before playing ‘spot the dolphin’ in the harbour, rewarded with a school of dolphins jumping in the water. Pure magic!
Dinner that evening in Doyle’s Seafood restaurant in Dingle sees the Italian declaring that his seafood pasta would rival anywhere in Puglia. High praise indeed.
Next, it’s up to my home county, Clare and on out to West Clare to stay in the family-friendly Falls Hotel in the now hipster town of Ennistymon.
As a kid this was just a faceless place we drove through on the way to Lahinch. Now it’s full of cafes, artisan cheese shops and cool restaurants and makes a great base for exploring the Burren, Cliffs of Moher or Lahinch, the home of surfing.
Their warm seafood platter for two with lobster, prawns, cockles and mussels is a fine example of the great produce we have on this island.
Breakfast next morning seems quite chaotic. Easily the hardest service of the day, everyone seems to arrive down together between 9.30 and 10am.
A lot of hotels now offer a full menu with dishes cooked to order like Eggs Benedict and omelettes, as well as having a full buffet, putting extra pressure on a kitchen and restaurant staff. Personally, I think offering a good quality buffet is enough for people to start their day off. If someone occasionally orders an omelette I’m sure that could be easily arranged.
That morning our visit to The Burren Perfumery, where they offer classes making soaps and lotions from the unique region’s plants, proves an enjoyable way to spend a few hours.
Then we treated ourselves to a light lunch in their café, where the vegan Moroccan orange cake was especially good. After lunch a short drive to Doolin saw us indulge in a barrel seaweed bath on the pier.
Costing €50 for an hour, we wallowed in the warm water and seaweed while looking out at the wild Atlantic. As holiday memories go, this one was both fun and unforgettable.
Pot Duggans is an example of how Ennistymon has changed over the years. A great set-up by the Body Tonic [festival) people, it’s an old barn transformed into a really cool dining space.
With a mix of visiting food trucks outside and their delicious pizza, The Italian admitted at this stage that “I’m not even missing the home country.”
Next day it’s off to the other side of the country, to Dungarvan, staying in the stylish Tannery Townhouse.
Owned by restaurant legends (and dear friends of ours) Paul and Máire Flynn, it’s a perfect example of destination dining with characterful Irish accommodation across the road.
Our first night’s dinner took us to the Farmgate in Lismore with comfort classics like confit of duck leg with mash served in the former old bar.
Next day, after breakfast in The Tannery, we braved the Atlantic, swimming off Clonea Beach. The Italian only went ankle deep, declaring it Baltic.
I managed five minutes fully submerged. Pleased to have done it we both agreed that cycling along the beautiful Greenway might have been the warmer option.
Dinner that night is in the Tannery where Paul’s food has been attracting loyal diners since 1997, serving some of the best cooking in Ireland with service from a professional and friendly young team.
Paul’s famous crab crème brûlée is one of the best starters you’ll ever have. The pub scene in ‘Fungarvan’ is a great place to wander around after dinner and enjoy a little libation before retiring for the night.
A day trip saw us enjoy an understated drive along the Copper Coast, stopping off in some beautiful coves and stretching our legs in Tramore on of the country’s longest piers.
Back in Dungarvan Eunice Powers’ And Chips, voted Best Takeaway in Ireland 2023, is the kind of chipper experience you’d hope all visitors get to enjoy.
No regular fish and chip shop, we sat at harbourside tables tucking into fresh fish tacos and fish burgers for a supper that was just heavenly.
The final part of our trip took us to Kilkenny for Sunday lunch in Campagne, the best value Michelin star lunch in the country.
Here, Garrett Byrne and Brid Hannon have a 3-course lunch for €48 with real, tasty cooking; if you have a fear of butter and cream this place is not for you.
We were there for the last night of the Kilkenny Arts Festival and were so lucky to attend a concert in St Canice’s Cathedral with the wonderful Norwegian violinist Mari Samuelsen and RTÉ Concert Orchestra.
At the end of our jaunt around southern Ireland I came away with some understanding of why tourists speak so highly of us. Like many other destinations, we have beautiful countryside and great ingredients, but it’s the service and the friendliness that sets us apart.
We are a naturally curious people — some might say nosey — but we love the chats, the craic, the laughs. That’s the real essence of Irish hospitality and the one that ensures visitors leave here with a smile on their faces.