Sobering thoughts: The best of non-alcoholic cocktails, beers, wines and more
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Around a dozen years ago I researched an article on non-alcoholic drinks for a different newspaper and I despaired at the poor quality of much of what was available. This time my struggle was what to leave out.
These days the options are everywhere with better quality beers and wines and with complex kombuchas and kick-ass kefirs, not to mention a wealth of cocktail ingredients.
Seedlip was the first of the non-alcoholic ‘gins’ and it does (kind of) work as a gin alternative in cocktails but it also comes at a premium price of €34 for 70cl.
Cedars is a little cheaper at €25 and Lyre’s London Spirit costs €29. Lyre’s Italian Spritz is I think the best of their range and has a fairly convincing Vermouth-like character for mock Negronis. Aldi’s ‘Saoirse’ meanwhile costs just €10 and is a good introduction to the style - it can be further infused with your own herbs, berries or even fruit tea leaves if you are feeling creative.
The Virgin Mary (TVM) on Dublin’s Capel Street has also released a new range of ‘spirits’. The Virgin Mary was Ireland’s (and arguably the world’s) first zero alcohol pub - it made headlines around the world when it opened in 2019. TVM’s ‘botanical elixirs’ are filled with ‘natural highs’ and ‘buzz without the booze’ which can be bought from their website along with a selection of some of the best drinks in this category.
Also new on the market since May 2022 is Irish made ‘Fire and 5th’ (€24.99 SuperValu) which has a pleasing spicy orange and chilli kick and works well shaken for a ‘spicy sour’ with egg white, sugar syrup and lime juice, or serve over ice with ginger ale.
Kefir is traditionally a fermented milk drink but commercial versions are usually water-based and fermented using a ‘SCOBY’ bacterial gel that is gut-friendly and can create complex flavours. King of Kefir is my go to brand - I especially like the Lemongrass & Ginger (330ml - €3,49) which can be found in good delis and food shops nationwide (also some SuperValu).
Just 7 calories per bottle and a proper grown-up drink - of the four varieties the Lemongrass & Ginger is my favourite for its zingy, tangy freshness but I also like the Cultured Hopped for its hint of Amarillo and Cascade hops. The Cucumber & Mint has a delicious cleanness and a herbal kick from thyme and the Chilli-Ginger a pleasing bang of heat.
Kombucha is fermented tea and there are several on the market. SynerChi Organic Kombucha began life in Stoneybatter (where else!) but is now based in Gweedór in Donegal. Fermented Sencha green tea flavoured with Ginger and Lemongrass (my favourite of the range) has bright ginger and lemon scents, body and texture with a light fizz - spice flavours and some pleasing spice and dried lemon notes. Also, watch for All About Kombucha from Galway.
You don’t need me to tell you about the big brand zero alcohol beers - they are perfectly fine but there is plenty to explore in the Craft Beer world - especially from Irish and Scandinavian Brewers.
Dungarvan ‘Main Sail’ has a solid dose of hops and malt and Wicklow Wolf ‘Moonlight’ is a little more citrus focused. Mikkeller ‘Drink’in the Sun’ Wheat Beer aims for West Coast IPA flavours with bright grapefruit notes and lively hop character, while Lervig ‘No Worries Grapefruit’ Pale Ale from Norway has a textured hoppy citrus kick.
If you find any of these beers a little bland make a Michelada Cocktail - simply coat the rim of the glass in chilli powder and salt, add lime juice and few dashes of Tabasco or your hot sauce of choice and pour the beer on top.
MacIvors, Highbank and Stonewell are my choices here - all three are well made and properly fruity and complex, tasting of cider, not plain sparkling apple juice.
Stonewell’s version is fermented and has its alcohol removed by reverse osmosis (a sort of filtering). Aromas of Bramley apple with background pear notes, bittersweet apple fruits on the palate enlivened with a light fizz and a textured lightly tannic character.
Removing alcohol from wine used to be done by heating but these days various vacuum and filtering methods are used which allow the ‘wine’ to retain most of its flavour. The texture that alcohol provides is more problematic but these are worth a try.
Leitz Ein Zwei Zero Riesling is my top pick (€11.99 and widely available) and their Rosé and Sparkling Rosé are even better.
O’Briens have a few in stock including the Torres Natureo range and their own Domaine de l’Arjolle Sauvignon-Viognier (€8.99) which has some tropical citrus flavours and decent texture. Lyres Sparkling (Brown Thomas and Lyres.eu) is also worth a try and makes a good Kir Royale when mixed with a little Mr. Jeffares Blackcurrant Cordial (€7.50).
Radler is my choice in this category which is usually around 2% ABV. I’m not sure there is a better summer drink. Gaffle Radler is exactly 2% and Einsiedler Radler 2.4% - both cost around €2.50 per 500ml and are found in good independents.
Radler was created for German cycling enthusiasts in the early 20th century and is a beer-lemonade Shandy. I slightly prefer the Einsiedler which pours a dusky yellow gold with bright lemon and tarte-au-citron aromas. Sweet-bitter lemonade hits the palate first but on the mid-palate the Pilsner and hop flavours kick in and the finish is all about noble hops and tart lemon.
Kinnegar Low Tide 1% Pale Ale Traditionally brewed low alcohol pale ale - fruity and malty with some pleasing citrus and tropical fruit zing and pleasing hop bitterness on the finish.