Darina Allen: Make the most of the season with my versatile roasted winter vegetable recipe 

Once upon a time, root vegetables were our winter staples, they stored well at a time of the year when fresh fruit and vegetables were not so readily available
Darina Allen: Make the most of the season with my versatile roasted winter vegetable recipe 

Fresh Seek From Out Produce Local Producers

Oh, this really is a tough time of the year for many, the month of reckoning after the Christmas splurge and all for what? Can we even remember what we spent a lot of our hard-earned cash on or the presents we got? It’s an especially good time of the year to get creative in the kitchen, using inexpensive but deliciously satisfying ingredients in response to the cost-of-living crisis that’s spooking us all. So back to basics…

What’s in season at present? Well of course the citrus fruits are at their very best but let’s think about veg. Once upon a time, root vegetables were our winter staples, they stored well at a time of the year when fresh fruit and vegetables were not so readily available. Does anyone make a Root Pit any more? I remember when I was little, beetroot, carrots and Bramley apples were carefully stored for winter in the garden in straw lined pits, covered with soil, a traditional way of preserving vegetables. When I visited Faviken, the legendary 3 Star Michelin restaurant in Northern Sweden in the late 1990s, Magnus Nielsen proudly showed me his root store beside the restaurant. Well, one way or the other, a wide range of root vegetables are now available in our shops and supermarkets. 

Try not to buy washed vegetables, they have less flavour and quite possibly, less nutrients due to leaching as a result of the industrial washing process. Think swede turnips, parsnips, celeriac, beetroot, black radishes, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes. Of course, carrots are also a root vegetable but many of the carrots available at present are imported, partly because it’s becoming virtually impossible for Irish vegetable growers to stay in business because they’re not paid nearly enough to cover the cost of production. We’re all losers in this race to the bottom. If this continues and sadly, I don’t see much reason to expect change any time soon, there will be virtually no Irish vegetable grower left within a couple of years.

Seek out fresh produce from local producers. Small local shops and farmers markets are the best place to source this kind of produce, packed with the vitamins and minerals we need to get us healthily throughout these winter months. Back in the kitchen, spices and fresh herbs are your friend to perk up root vegetables but don’t just think savoury. Virtually all the roots can be incorporated into sweet dishes too and are also brilliant to spin out a little meat or to bulk up a stew or casserole. The other advantage of root vegetables is their keeping qualities, you can use half a swede turnip and use the remainder a week later. Best to store roots in a cool dark place and they don’t need to be in the fridge, a covered box in the garage is fine.

So here are a few suggestions for delicious rooty recipes, both sweet and savoury. I particularly loved a pot of bodice and roots that I made recently with a sheet of bacon spare ribs from my local butcher that cost just €7 and made a fine supper for eight of us. If you are in Cork city, go along to the butchers in the English Market, particularly Kathleen Noonan’s & O’Reilly’s stall to find a whole selection of less expensive traditional cuts of pork and bacon. skirts and kidneys, pig’s tails, tripe and drisheen, fresh and salted ribs... all are delicious with root vegetables even if it’s just a big bowl of carrots and parsnip mash with a blob of good butter melting into the centre.

Venison and Jerusalem artichoke stew with gremolata

By:darina Allen Recipe

But Also This You Is It) A Present Recipe Of Get In Lots Venison There Goat Or Delicious Excellently Works Shoulder (if Lamb Around Can Of At

Venison and Jerusalem artichoke stew with gremolata

Servings

6

Preparation Time

10 mins

Cooking Time

60 mins

Time Total

1 hours 10 mins

Course

Main

ingredients

  • Into Potatoes, Cut Peeled Inch) (2lbs) 4cm 900g And Cubes 1/2 (1

  • Extra 3 Olive Oil Tbsp 2 Virgin

  • Sliced 250g Or Onions, (9oz) Chopped Roughly

  • Leeks, Sliced (9oz) 250g

  • Garlic Cloves 3

  • (18oz) (1/2 Sliced And Peeled Crossways 1cm Inch) 500g Into Artichokes,

  • Peeled Sliced 500g 1cm (1/2 Inch) Carrots, Into (18oz) And Crossways

  • Teaspoon Salt 1

  • Or 900g Cut 2cm Inch) Shoulder (2lbs) Into Lamb Venison Cubes (3/4

  • 1/2 Litres Lamb 1 Stock Venison, 5 (2 Or Pints) Chicken

  • Sprig Of Thyme 1

  • to Serve

  • Gremolata 

  • Potato Cubes Well And 900g Freshly Salt Season With Ground Pepper (2lbs) Black

method

  1. Just Carrots To And The Jerusalem Stir At Frying Add Beginning A Garlic, Minutes In And Toss Crushed And The Pan, 5 Add Artichokes Oil The Until Olive The Edges Heat Colour 4 Onion And Cook For

  2. The Lamb Stock Thyme With And Add Heat Add To To The The Sprigs And Of Over A Toss Transfer Rosemary And Casserole A In The Venison Casserole Or Batches High

  3. 30 Parsley Than Black To Heat And Remove Cooks And For Until With Freshly Potatoes, The 30 And Bring To Minutes Ground Cook Faster 15 Simmer The Are Salt For Season To The Reduce Thyme (lamb Cooked Meat The Or Venison) Pepper Add Diced Vegetables Then A Boil, Continue Minutes The And

  4. Parsley And Just Taste Gremolata With Seasoning Correct Or Sprinkle The And Chopped

Swede turnips with caramelised onions

Allen Recipe By:darina

And Are Of Turnips On Brilliant Flavours Value Take So Versatile, Swede Lots

Swede turnips with caramelised onions

Servings

6

Preparation Time

10 mins

Time Cooking

60 mins

Total Time

1 hours 10 mins

Course

Side

ingredients

  • 900g Swede (2lbs) Turnips

  • Of Salt Freshly Ground Pepper And Lots

  • Butter 110g 50 4oz) (2

  • Onions  Caramelised

  • garnish

  • Parsley Finely Chopped

method

  1. Into (3/4 To Thickly Inch) In Into Peel High Approx Put The Remove Thick The Skin Outside Turnip Saucepan A Cut Order Sided 2cm Cubes

  2. Between Cover Pinch 60 With Off Turnips Add The Boil Mash Until The – Well To Cook And Water Minutes 45 Excess And The In Strain Can Salt, Take This Bring Good A The Water, Of Butter Soft Beat

  3. Serve Hot With Of With Onions Sprinkle Pepper Necessary Ground And Lots If Season And Caramelised Salt Garnish And With Freshly Piping Taste Parsley, More

Roast Winter vegetables

Recipe Allen By:darina

Technique Vegan With Can That Can Added Versatile Or You Or Spicy Include Be Sausage Of Chunks Or Tofu, Bacon A Vegetarian

Roast Winter vegetables

Servings

8

Time Preparation

5 mins

Time Cooking

40 mins

Total Time

45 mins

Course

Side

ingredients

  • Your Choice (4 Winter From: Vegetables 2kg 1/2lbs) Of

  • Carrots, Pieces Inch) Cut Into 4cm 1/2 (1 Peeled And

  • 1/2 4cm Pieces Cut Inch) (1 Into Parsnips, And Peeled

  • And Pieces Peeled Into (1 Cut Squash, Or Butternut 1/2 4cm Pumpkin Inch)

  • Jerusalem Inch) Artichokes, Into (1 Cut Peeled Pieces 1/2 And 4cm

  • White Onion, Depending Cut Size Wedges On Or Peeled Quarters Sixths, Red Or And Of Into

  • (1 Into Leeks, Cut 5cm Rounds 2 Inch)

  • Inch) Cut Into Peeled (1 Pieces 1/2 And Beetroot, 4cm

  • (1 4cm Peeled Celeriac, Pieces Cut Into Inch) 1/2 And

  • Cloves, Unpeeled Garlic 8

  • Oil Extra Virgin Olive

  • 2 1 Tbsp And/or Freshly Rosemary Chopped Thyme,

  • Black Salt Ground Pepper Flaky And Sea Freshly

method

  1. Mark 230°c/450°f/gas Oven Preheat To 8 The

  2. The Immediately To Roast With The Toss Salt Starting So Freshly And Until Minutes, Caramelize Chunk Sprinkle Olive Dish, Each The Well Chopped Into Fully Is Vegetables Occasionally, And Toss Virgin Or The At Oil And Cooked Serve Lightly 40 Prepared Vegetables Edges For Season Pepper 30 Tossing Coated Extra With Are Gratin Drizzle With Herbs

  3. Roast Wonder In Oven, You As In They Soggy You Out If And The Go Soon They’ll Why Around Bothered Sit The May Of Oven, E Or Out The Vegetables Quickly Of As Tuck

Hot Tips

The Secret Skills of Pastry Chef Suzanne Nelson at  Ballymaloe Cookery School on Saturday, 4th March 2023

Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, Ken's Artisan Bakery in Portland and Stissing House in upstate New York: pastry chef Suzanne Nelson has honed her skills at some of the best places and with the best chefs. While working at Ken’s — owned by Ken Forkish, author of the best-selling artisan bread book Flour Water Salt Yeast—  she was lead in the viennoiserie section. 

During her time there, the bakery was included in Food & Wine Magazine’s round-up of The Best Croissants in America (with special mention for their pistachio frangipane croissants) as well as being a finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Baker awards. Three years at Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse followed, as Suzanne focused on daily changing desserts using the seasonal and local, sustainably farmed ingredients that the establishment is noted for. Most recently, Suzanne moved to the Hudson Valley to work with chef and restaurateur Clare de Boer of New York’s King for the opening of Stissing House, garnering press attention for her “modified classics like rum-roasted pineapple with vanilla ice cream,” coconut cake and jumbo rhubarb crumble. For this class, Suzanne will demonstrate some of her show-stopping dessert classics, teach you how to make the most of seasonal ingredients and explain the best way of improvising when essential components turn up late or unusable.

Congratulation to Kells Gin on recent accolade

A belated congratulation to Kells Gin for scooping Gold at the Global Gin Masters 2022 in December.

A lockdown project with the assistance of Listoke Distillery, Kells Gin is the brainchild of brother and sister duo, Vincent and Olivia Duff in Kells. It was officially launched to the market in November 2021. Much time and consideration has been invested into the range of botanicals, local ingredients and citrus led notes that give Kells Gin its unique traits as a premium bespoke craft gin.

Seed Week and Seed Gathering

Seed Week runs from 6 – 10 February 2023 and Seed Gathering runs from 11 – 12 February just to remind us to pick up some salad and veggie seeds to get started.

My Brown Envelope Seeds Catalogue arrived today — www.brownenvelopeseeds.com

So many tempting varieties I’m particularly excited about — pea and salad leaves. Some of the heirloom tomatoes — Tangidel, Sungold F1 which has a superb flavour plus squash, corn and beans.

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